More doors (not pivot, though)

Browsing around to find the pivot doors led to many other interesting doors. I just don't understand why I'll have to import from Australia or Europe to get something that is nice and crisp. The Australian door company with the Corinthian series has some great designs. Both the Madison series and the Euro have really great designs.

Pivot doors for front door

I have been drawn to pivot doors since I saw pictures (in Dwell) from an Icelandic architect's own house. Tom Kundig also uses the pivot style door extensively (and they have some pretty cool pivot walls/doors in the studio in Seattle). I find the offset axis pivot particular interesting. One of the impressive things with the pivot principle is that an extremely heavy door can be opened with ease. But is is hard to find pivot doors.

An Australian door company carries a product series called Corinthian, that sports a kind-of pivot, but not nearly as offset I had in mind.

Then there are pivot doors with very rustic stiles, like Black Canyon doors. Here is a picture of one of their doors.

Very decorative, kind-of ethnic styled pivots are available from several South African manufacturer - funny that they are so prominently represented here. Examples are Moongard (bit too ornamental for my taste) and K. Parker (too boring).


The only modern style US manufacture I found was Megawood. They only describe a centered pivot, but may be able to do an asymmetrical as well.

Roof... green? flat? whatever...

I need to get to some decision about the roof - soon. The solar panel decision would require a new roof. It strikes me that I still haven't got a good idea of how much it would cost to go green.

The pros are, I assume:
- I need to replace the roof anyway
- A green roof will help insulate for both extremes: heat and chill
- I like the thought of having a green roof
- I was thinking of getting more substance anyway (the current roof looks so skimpy)

The questions are:
- Will the roof structure be able to carry the green roof?
- What is the real cost of a complete installation with correct drainage, irrigation and plant material? I have read estimates around $15-25 per sf for extensive roofs, and if all my 3000 sf roof area should be covered it would be $60K. That's a lot!!!! And it doesn't include the waterproof membrane - which I believe will easily cost $10-15K

I need some real numbers!

Solar energy

Google just announced a new benefit: it has negotiated that we Googlers will get special rebates with 3 photovoltaic system designers/installers - in addition to state incentives.

So it looks like the calculation will be something like this:
+ $20,000: 3kW installation (minimum installation for one of the rebate programs) - would it cost something like ?
- $7,500: State inventive for 2007: $2.50/W
- $1,000: Google rebate
- ???: Tax incentives in the form of tax credit

That is, $11,500 for a system that likely will cover my usage.

My current electricity usage is so low that it doesn't make sense, though that would change if I install the SwimEx spa. My normal usage is around 7.5 Kwh/day, with winter usage climbing up to 10 Kwh/day.
The real killer on my energy budget is gas, for heating. These last winter months cost a lot as my usage has jumped from the summerly 1-2 therms/day to a whopping 5-6 therms/day (or $200-250/month).

I have an email into SwimEx to get the estimates. If I go this route I could also decide to make some of the new installations and appliances electrical, for instance, a new dryer and perhaps even the furnace/boiler.

Current thinking re floorplan

I realize it has been a while since I last captured my thoughts about floorplans. A while back I got the idea that in stead of fighting the annoying 45 degree angle at the garage/entry way, perhaps I should in stead try to embrace it. That led to a series of drawings of which this one seems the most promising. Basically I am adding 214 sf to the 1680 I already have, and I can preserve a lot of the existing (messy) structure until I get into the mood ....
The "final" plan looks like this:

The Danish obsession ;-)

It seems somewhat alarming how much I am looking to Denmark and Northern Europe for interior and exterior styles, as if there wasn't styles in the US to adopt and get inspired by. Well, it isn't completely true: I like Tom Kundig's exteriors and I have found several great houses in my books on modern American architecture. And I also like many older houses, like some of the original craftsman homes from late 19th century (Tom and Lydia's home for once), and the Eichler homes (yes, I put them under "older" styles, not really "modern" after 50 years).

Leif, my brother who co-designed my parent's home in early 70's, should be proud of his work, and I am trying to steal style elements from that house, like the convector boxes in the floor underneath the huge window/door wall and the raw rain chains ending in a concrete catch basin filled with egg sized stones.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, the hydronic heating is slowly making its way into the US market, but so far it comes mostly as floor heating and a few pretty bland (style-wise) space heating radiators. Like the products from Beacon-Morris or the US branch of Myson (a British co); the only one I would even consider is the Decor line. Now, take Myson, and compare the product line that is sold in US with what is available in UK. What is going on her? It is certainly NOT true that there are not US home owners who would want the designer pieces - and who can afford it. I wonder how much chicken and egg is involved: hydronic heat is a major and costly shift, and who would do it if they would have to stick in bland radiators and baseboard heaters? Now, being a design infatuated American who encounters one of the European stylish radiators, it itself is costly but if it comes with a demand of changing the entire heating system.

And I bet that the few importers/distrubutors of European styles are helping making it hard to penetrate - by marking up any items beyond reach for mere mortals.

Gee, we need the Ikea equivalent of plumbing to enter this stale and bland market!

Rain chains and catch basins

While Tony was here we did some exploration in downspout alternatives: with chains and catch basins.

I had been thinking of the rain chains used in Denmark (e.g., my parents' house from early 70s). Recently rain chains have been used here in the US, but mostly in the old Japanese inspired cutesiness of little containers that take over from each other. The ones I am after are away more robust. I am thinking of 3 chains replacing each downspout.
Tony clearly preferred the most heavy-weight we found, which was the 3/4" galvanized. I got hooked on the heat treated system 7 transport chain and I looked at the slightly thinner version of 5/8". Tony was concerned that the heat treated would rust and get ugly, and also look too skimpy in 5/8".
The price is somewhere between $2 and $2.50 per lin foot if purchased in half drums (200' of 3/4"), so we are ending up with 5 x 3 x 11' which is 165' or within the $500 estimated. Kind of expensive downspouts: $100 each. Though it is not too different from the cost of copper down spouts (another of my wacky ideas).

Thinking of it, I need to remember not to start the chains at the top of the roof opening: the thick chains will simply block too much.

Ewing Irrigation has some interesting square concrete boxes that could be used as catch basins. The price was something like $50 for a 22" sided concrete box, and closer to $120 for one with metal rim. Looks like we will just have to make do with the un-rimmed ones.

Windows and doors

Am I just loosing it, or did I not previously talk about the big bugging issue I have had throughout this last year: the replacement of windows and doors.
Following the tradition of Alameda I would of course import a full set of Mahogany windows from Denmark - although the price advantage has gone down with the decline of the US dollar towards European currencies.
But another doubt-indicator is at play: it may make more sense to replace the windows with alu-framed windows and doors - to fit the late 50's/early 60's Eichler style of the house. On the other hand: this house is NOT an Eichler, and the crooked garage is certainly making it hard to even pretend I am one. Also, style and era faithfulness should only be carried forward when it helps the design considerations. In this case it does not.
So, I have gotten a quote from JNA in Denmark for Mahogany windows and doors. The advantage is taht they will be made to spec for no extra cost; the disadvantage is that they don't come with the nailing fins that seem to be a life-saver for US contractors. And they don't come with any of the niceties often optional in US windows, like screens.
I also looked into steel and alu-windows. Two different contractors came back and said they couldn't accommodate so large windows as the current LR picture windows. I thought that was odd and started researching it myself. There is a company that may be holding the answer: Fleetwood in San Francisco. I still have to fill out the quote request to get a sense of their pricing level.

Swing-out garage doors

Ok, it looks like I am gradually coming to peace with my crooked 45-degree-angled garage, so the old question is reappearing: what about garage doors? The dbl. door I have is neither pretty nor useful; as to the latter issue: the locking mechanism doesn't exist; it is heavy and there is no automatics, and the headroom is way too low because it functions as an overhead door.
I had the Guatemalans put in the drain - under Tony's supervision. And now it is time to think garage doors.

Earlier on I thought of the glass garage doors. But the problem of low head room is not solved.

I discussed with Tony the option of converting the opening into 2 single doors and having them open as swing-outs. And it sounded like that would work. And because the right-side garage corner is up for some serious wet-rot repair we might as well redefine the rough opening of the garage as appropriate to fit new doors.

I found some doors that I like - but they are in Seattle!!!! I was not able to find online any swing-out door manufacturer or distributor in the Northern California area.

Nevertheless, what I found was very nice: they produce doors with glass lites, but also some with metal. I am starting to see a trend here: using "raw" metals that are coordinated, e.g., ga;vanized chains downspouts, galvanized flashings, galvanized metal as lites - or replace galvanized with whatever your favorite metal is: copper, etc.

Siding

I have seen a couple of pictures of unfinished cedar siding. I think it is untreated, although when I mention it to some contractors they seem to almost faint: how will it keep water tight? is one of the questions. Now, I don't think that the siding is supposed to be a moisture barrier, just a barrier for direct impact. I think it is just like the stucco layer: it is really meant to be permeable and it is important to make sure water has a way out on its backside. But I am really just guessing and going from pictures; hopefully someone will set me straight if need be.

What I like about the unfinished cedar planks is that they change hue: they are silver in dry sunshine and almost black when wet.
This is where a knowledgeable architect might come in handy: helping on all these materials questions, and finding all the cool things that I only find when they are part of my "Danish heritage."

BTW, I just realize that the siding on parts of the Googleplex looks like raw cedar; wonder if I will be tired of having cedar around me all day long, all week long.

URL for the pict above: www.kentinternational.ca/brochures/Cedar_OnePrestige_Siding.pdf

Convection in floor - in front of windows ???

Meanwhile I've done some research myself on radiators.

It seems like it may be an overly expensive proposition to cut out holes in the floor and subfloor for the convector boxes in front of all 5 windows and doors in the LR. But the reason why I want them is that I am still dreaming of having 5 dbl. patio doors leading directly to the outdoor space.

So here are the options:
1. All openable doors => convector boxes in floor -

for aesthetic reasons all 5 openings should have the grills

-- or an alternative I found:
the tall panels that stick out in the room at the posts

2. Only the 1st and the 5th are patio doors =>
depending on how much heating I need, I may only need
heaters at the 3 windows

Now, in terms of heaters in front of windows I have a couple of options:
a Small radiators sticking up from the floor in front of the tall windows













b Bench-like radiators in front of the tall window













c Windows that go only to 18-20" from floor and build out of bench-like structure.















So, how about some decision making ;-)

Hydronic heating

As mentioned before, I hate forced air heating. But last time I looked into getting hydronic space heating (not just floor heating) - it was back in 2000 when I planned the Alameda remodeling - I had problems finding anyone with the right experience. Things have changes since then; hydronic heating seems to fit into the general green building program. I have had two contractors out to look at the task, one of them seemed particularly on top of things.

The task (in the outset) was basically:

Phase 1: Replace my antique furnace and (not so old) water heater with a boiler and boiler heated water heater. Think thermal solar energy.
Build convector boxes in the floor in front of the big windows in the LR, and possibly also in the blue BR. Use panel radiators in other bedrooms and kitchen. Dimension to heater to serve all phases.

Phase 2: [When entryway is ready for roughing-in]
Install floor heating in new entryway (incl. new corridor + powder room + bathroom).

Phase 3: [when kitchen is ready for roughing in]
Install floor heating in new kitchen.

Phase 4: [When the current BA/BR maze gets sorted out, back bath expanded with new floorplan ready for roughing in]
Install floor heating in new BA.
Install towel heater in yellow BA

Phase 5: [when SwimEx is ready to be installed]
Connect to solar panels????

Phase 6: [cannot even think about it]

I found a new UK web site dedicated to radiator. Here it is.

Security system

The house was burglarized late June; somebody entered a high-up bathroom window and got away with flat screen monitor, laptop, camera, headsets, and my brand new LCD TV. The sheriff thought it might be somebody from one of the many work crews that have been around (landscapers, concrete haulers, sewer people, etc.) It was a very unpleasant experience, and I have been thinking of what to do to prevent something similar in the future.

My immediate reaction would be to install some fancy system that would detect if somebody came near the house while I am gone, send me a message to allow me to watch the details. And I would then speak to the person "Excuse me, is there something I can help you with?" or just "Get off my property! Now!"

Well, I tried to explore more mundane solutions in the form of monitored alarm systems but ran into an issue: they all seem to require that there is a landline. I have decided not to have one.

I checked out some of the IP and networked video camera solutions.
First a couple from Fry's - of which one didn't work at all, and the other required a PC to be on all the times. Back to Fry's they went.
Next was a Q-see system w/ 4 cameras and DVR; it required a PC to set up but would otherwise provide the capability of remote web-based watching - special discount at Costco made it just over $500. The cameras looked like really good quality, nice and heavy, solid. But the DVR turned out to be very very noisy. And I couldn't get port mapping to work with my D-link Xtreme router, so the remote web options was not there. I returned it to Costco.
I am waiting for my third attempt: I ordered the AT&T remote monitor service, which is partly a hardware kit with a camera and a door detector, plus stuff to make the wireless setup really easy. The kit is $99, and the web and cellphone service costs $9.95/mo. It is quite close to my initial desire - at least i the description. Let's see when it arrives.

I also bought an automatic/electric gate opener - but haven't had it installed yet. The idea is to have the gate closed and thereby deter people from simply driving in their truck and loading it up with my goodies.

Catching up

I am catching up after another month of posting tardiness. The following posts will try to fill in the gaps.
- 8/8 mtg. w. Daniel Piechota, architect (daniel "at" sp-architecture"dot" com)
- 8/13 mtg w. David Moore, the arborist
- 8/21 mtg w. Harrison, hydronic heating contactor (harrisonshvac "at" comcast "dot" net)
- 8/22 mtg w. David Karson for Michelucci (engineering "at" michelucci "dot" com)
- 8/22 mtg w. Garry, crawlspace lining contractor (garyc "at" mgconstructors "dot" net)
- 8/23 mtg w. Michael, crawlspace lining contractor
- 8/30 mtg w. Lance, hydronic heating contactor

Research on
- security systems (adt 7/14, Q-see, IP based security system)
- rain chains (real chain, not the flimsy decor stuff) and catch basins
- siding
- convection heaters/radiators
- swing-out garage doors (Mardie "at" realcarriagedoors "dot" com)

"Basically a pretty sound house"

All the meetings with contractors and engineers have left me with a feeling that my house is in pretty good shape, not at all screaming for demolition and replacement.

It has some quirks of course, and even if it has held up for 50 years it does have some "faults", like a level difference of 1.8" on the west facing side: one corner is way up, the other is way down. But the rest of the house has only differences of .6" which is really nothing.

Here are the level measures inside

In connection with a bid for wrapping my crawlspace, one of the contractors provided me with a free-of-charge level measurements using a zip level. It was relatively good news. The level difference is mostly within .6" except for the SW corner (the blue bedroom) the west facing wall slopes 1.8"

West to east - N side: 1.1 0.6 -0.1 0.0 -0.1 -0.3
BRw BRe BA BA/corr study LRw LRe
West to east - S side: -0.7 0.0 0.3 0.4 -0.1 -0.6 -0.4

Well drilling - water finding

Wow. What else can I say? Magic? Fraud?
I had the well driller, Wilkinson Enterprise, come out to inspect the lot in preparation for a bid on well drilling work. The fellow who came brought along this little homemade device: a rod attached to a handle that allowed it to move extremely easily. He held it out, closed his eyes and started mumbling 6 gallons at 140, 20 gallons at 187,....
In retrospect I am a bit sorry that I let him see the soils report beforehand - it would have been interesting if he had been able to locate the high water table area at the fault area with the rod alone.
I don't have any problems accepting that some people may have special abilities to "read" the land and combine these reading with whatever the rod might indicate. So it seems fine to use an expert "dowser" to locate likely places. The problem though is how to decide if a particular individual is a true or false dowser.
Now, in this case I was worried that he seemed to go too far. He claimed he could tell how much water production I would get at different boring depths. That's almost ;-) OK with me. Where I hit the brake was when he claimed he could tell me the age of the water. He "read" that some of the upper chambers were 18 years old, that the average was 6 years, and that the level he was aiming for was only 1 year - presumably meaning that is was an actively renewed source.

Aug 31: The dowser/well driller sent me a quote of 17K, of course with no guarantee whatsoever that the borings would have any value. I wouldn't be surprised if that is actually close to the avg. price for any well drilling, guided by dowsers or geologists, so I am definitely going to pass on the well idea.

Soil reports and well drilling ideas

While looking into swimming pool options, I got a copy of the 2004 soil report from Sigma Prime - originally created for the planning of the Tuscan villa that the prev. owners designed for the lot.
It suggests that a small fault is crossing the property way down in the meadow. Actually, the fact that it is somewhat green down there in the midst of an otherwise dried out grass meadow may confirm it: I read that the fault forces water from the clay uphill to rise. Of the 6 borings they did, only one (#4) came up with ground water present (at 2') and only one did not have Whiskey Hill formation (#5) as a 2-8 feet layer between rock and surface soil.
Later I learned from Ron Morris that WH fm was a big trouble maker due to its extreme expandability and unpredictable run. He used the term that it "serpentine'd" - that water saturation in places where it was covered/concealed by upper layers might cause the water to move to other places in the layer where it could cause swelling. So it sounds like you cannot just assume that water travels downhill when it is embedded in the clay layer.
Now all that is bad for planning new construction. As to the existing house, it has been sitting there since 1957, and it has only minor settling in the SW corner.

But I wonder: would it be an idea to make a well down near the fault where the water table is really close to the surface? The water could be used for irrigation.
I have contacted a couple of well drillers. One of them will come by next week.
I am a bit uneasy about the project though. I had thought it would be a simple digging of a 3-6 feet hole, securing the walls and then attaching some pump and piping. But according to the well driller, they would go down 200 feet and create a concrete walled well. Sounds like overkill relative to the use I had in mind. I wonder if there would be some other kind of specialist to consult?
Just to get a sense of my current water usage and how much of that goes into irrigation: My monthly usage with minimal irrigation (oct-mar/apr)is 10 ccf; irrigation starts kicking in around May, topping in August, with an avg. of 20 ccf/mo.
[10 ccf = 7480 gal)

Meeting w Kundig

Tom Kundig has created some really cool houses. I started noticing him just after the Katrina disaster when I was still living in Seattle and had started researching current trends in prefabs and cabins. Somehow I stumbled over his ChickenPoint house and then found his Delta shelter.
I bought his book Houses, and in it I found the Studio House which is very close to what I would love to build.

So I like most of the exteriors; I love the use of strong materials that age with beauty, and I am completely taken by the mechanics element, like the cranked window wall where ingenious design make the action super-easy (I would like to know the proper terms for this magic: something about transfer of forces). I am less thrilled about some of the interiors where I think he is too "raw" and also a bit too dark - and I have no affinity for the medieval/mystical elements.

I met with him in his Seattle studio and we spent an hour talking about my site and ideas. I went away with a neutral feeling. Perhaps he would be great - perhaps not. I didn't get any particular ideas from him - besides the general concepts I have already described in this blog. But that is of course not to be ignored; it means a lot to have these general concepts validated by a an expert.
We did discuss the dilemma of remodel versus building new, and he seem to echo the sense I had: that rebuilding might end up being more expensive - and perhaps less satisfactory - than tearing down and starting from scratch. On the other hand, he had himself been remodeling for 6 years.
And somehow the question is simpler in my case: I cannot currently afford to build a new home from scratch, and I need to do something on the existing home to make it pleasant to live in (like stopping roof leaks in a roof that is way beyond its functional lifetime). Where it matters is that I will rather live on in the current home than spend 3-400K on something mediocre.
We ended the meeting with a kind-of loose agreement that he should come by and see the property when he next time visits the Bay Area. I think that will be important, and hopefully move my neutral stance to one of enthusiasm: I really need the power of architectural vision to end up with something I am totally happy about.

Swimming - current thinking

I got the quote from Corby Gould for a 40x10 lap pool, concrete w/ fiberglass skin; it is close to 60K. The price doesn't include permits, which could get up in the 7K range. Previously I got spoken quotes from Swan, which was close to 90K. And Coral pools never came back.

Meanwhile I have started using the Google pool, a SwimEx swim spa with paddle wheel wave generation. It is really nice. Just too bad it is always booked up in the mornings and late afternoons. So I am thinking of getting one - in stead of the lap pool. The Google pool is a highend (model 600 w/ 28" tall current; cheaper ones have only 18"). The cost of the cheapest one will be close to 40K installed - close to 50K for the 600 model. The expected tax deduction is equivalent to a cash rebate of 5K. So at least a 35K expense.

That should perhaps be compared w. the 20K one-time cost of membership (plus $250/mo in dues) in the Alpine Swim and Tennis club - where the new pool likely will be opened this fall - I am still some way away from reaching the top of the waiting list. It will be busy in morning, noon and late pm hours, though.

So it looks like my options are:
A. A real lap pool, say 10x40, with cover and possibly vanishing edge: 75K - tax deduct
B. A SwimEx: 40K - tax deduct
C. A club membership: 20K + $250/mo

PS: I found a perfect outdoor shower to go with my own pool:

Just a quick list of accomplishments

- 8/1 mtg. w. Russell , roof inspector / repair person (rirs "at" comcast "dot" net):
The roof is not in a good shape, and spot repairs (estimated at $767) will not be guaranteed. But since the rainy season is likely to start before I even make a decision on what to do with the roof, I am decided to go forward with the repairs - scheduled now for early september.

- 8/4 Chimney inspection and cleaning (sorry but the cricket guy is a bit of a challenge - pushy, patronizing and also pretty expensive)

- 8/3 Met with the Day worker center people in Mountain view. Arranged to have 2 workers available when Tony is here, at least from Tuesday-Friday

- 8/9 mtg. w. Ron Morris, structural engineer
Thought the structure looked pretty sound and worth building onto. Though that my expansion plans were all good, but really wanted a second opinion on the soil condition. Liked the idea on the breeseway to separate preservable and new space from the maze-like west end.

- 8/13 mtg. w. David Moore, the arborist
Calmed me down about the redwoods - they just need water. Which is bad news: I find it wrong to have to irrigate 50+ ear old native trees. But that was what he said. We walked around the lot and he gave me a lot of advice on plants and care.

- 8/11-8/17 Tony visited and did a lot of magic, including maintenance things like oil-treating countertop (why am I to lazy to do it myself?), hanging lamps and mirrors, adding deck receptacle, repairing ll the screendoros and some interior sliders, overseeing the installation of garage drain, and brainstorming on larger remodeling projects. Tony ended up NOT wanting the day workers, so I cancelled.

Research on
- well drilling (scheduled 8/21 pm)
- swimming pools and swim spas
- siding

Foundation

The house has crawl space under the long rectangular section - only the added-on BA and BR (mocha) are slab on grade. BTW, it doesn't sound right to say "on grade" about the BA-BR addition; the slab's top is at least 1.5 foot above grade.

Here is a picture from the crawl space:

Human scale - spaciousness without pomposity

My former home in Emerald Hills/RWC was bigger than most 2BR/1BA houses built in the same era. For instance, the hallway was 5' wide, not 3' as is most often the case; the ceiling height was full 8' throughout and 11' in the living room. Without being pompous it provided a sense of roominess, headroom, breathing room. A visiting architect once commented that it had a "human scale"; I think that is a great concept.

modernity and pastiche

I grew up with the Friis and Moltke modernism in architecture - with their designs as well as the somewhat "flattened" reinterpretation that made it into the "typehus" developments of the 70s (F&M are Danish architects, their work sometimes called the "Danish brutalism").
Danes have been less inclined to reproduce the older and foreign classic building styles when they build a new house, as opposed to the rampant pastiche work over here - producing new houses that looks exactly like craftman style homes and victorians, and mid-century (the last one, that is) Tuscan villas.

It is not that I don't like old architecture; I enjoy it and I have happily lived in it, like my Copenhagen apartment for twenty years, on 3rd floor in a building from 1850, in the old, inner part of town (inside the moat). And my Mediterranean style home in RWC from 1927.

But if I were to build my home from scratch I would not want to miss out on new architectural opportunites.

That said, there is a lot of modern architecture I don't like. A lot seems over-designed, as if being different is a quality in itself. For me good design, good architecture, is so much the thought and wisdom that is put into the basic workings of the living space (the functionalism), the beauty of the structure, inside as well as outside in interaction with the landscape, and - not to forget - the humor and surprise that lift everything up. Yes, I know, I am such a romantic ;-)

I tend to go for the softer touch in modernity, for instance where steel AND wood balance each other. Though, I have seem so amazing buildings like the Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver where concrete, glass and steel all by themselves were made to interact in a way that felt warm and welcoming. [BTW, I never thought that a city with skyscrapers could be beautiful before I saw Vancouver; it is amazing what can be accomplished when you let the architects loose]

Materials

Wood is beautiful; fake wood is awful. Why? I guess it is because I don't like when materials pretend to be something they are not. Plastic! There is also a practical aspect to it: fake stuff often get worn and start showing their "other nature" - Whereas wood age gracefully.

I like surfaces that age gracefully. Like weathered wood, weathered steel/iron/copper, worn hide, etc. Just think of the difference between flaking paint and greyed weathering (is that a word?)

think of multiple uses

A towel bar should not be just a towel bar; it should be strong enough to also function as a support bar. Regardless of whether there are handicapped people around... we are all occasionally, momentarily handicapped so we would all benefit from this way of thinking.
The case about the towel bar is rooted in an actual experience: some years ago, a couple of days after hip surgery, I happened to lean towards such a bar and -- ouch! -- landed with full weight on the "new" hip when the decorative towel bar gave way. Luckily nothing went wrong

Casements without cranks

I just cannot make myself love the American crank system that all casement windows seem equipped with. I really prefer the old-fashioned latch system or - as a second - the tilt/turn (I am not alone "In the high-end and custom residential markets, casement hardware is reverting to simpler designs and European-inspired functionality.")

Natural air conditioning; green roof?

It would be cool (in several senses of the word) to have a grass roof. My old infatuation with the Faroe Islands may be sneaking in here. I wonder, though, if green roofs are ally feasible in a climate like this, with regular drought periods.
Also, thinking of the nice cool basement in my RWC home, it would be good to think in ways to do natural cooling.

I have never come to terms with the forced air heating in this country. I don't like the noise and I don't think it is healthy to whirl up all the dust and other stuff. It isn't just floor heating I am talking about; I would like to have "radiators" (that's what we call them in Denmark; people here talk about baseboard heaters, but they do not seem to be exactly what I am alluding to).

Danfoss has passed their sleek heating designs over to Meinertz
General intro in: http://www.meinertz.com/convec/english/index.html

Danfoss floor convection: http://www.meinertz.com/convec/english/dok/FloorLine_wiringguide_web.pdf
Danfoss wall heater: http://www.meinertz.com/convec/english/dok/InLine_productprogramme.pdf

But there are more goodies, like I am showing on the main blog, Golden Oak

There are also amazing radiator designs from UK and Germany. See for instance, http://www.bathroomstuff.co.uk/decorative_radiators.html
and http://www.runtalnorthamerica.com/
Here are some examples:
http://www.bathroomstuff.co.uk/c2/uploads/adelphi%20_%20large%20website%20image.jpg

http://www.bathroomstuff.co.uk/c2/uploads/jeux%20_%20large%20image.jpg
http://www.bathroomstuff.co.uk/c2/uploads/massimo%20_%20website%20image.jpg


More modest designs are
Riva Vertical 1800mm x 224mm x 4 tubes 456 watts 1556 btu £187.00

Really colorful designs: Crea Therm; Prices from £184 to £1151 (RRP excluding VAT and delivery)

But back to the important point: I often feel so-o-o-o cold in Californian houses; it is partly becasue the builders seem to be in denial of the temperature fluctuations that actually happens here. My Californian friends are bemused, suggesting that my Danish background should have made me used to cold houses. They couldn't be more wrong.

Accessible and green design

I have been home-bound for a couple of weeks after menicus surgery. It became absolutely clear that half of this house is unsuited for handicapped people: the doors are all very narrow and the hallway makes a narrow S-bend that make it impossible to navigate a wheelchair.
That is what is so hard about design - at least for me as an amateur: it is hard to remember all these concerns I really would like to observe.
It is the same with green building, etc.
I would hate to build something that doesn't also address issues like accessibility and sustainability. I am not fanatic about it; I just want to have it considered.
To help me remember some of these issues I started another blog called fewfavorites

Landscape design ideas: deck and pool

Given that the major value of this home is primarily in the view and the beautiful location among redwoods and oaks, I should really spend a good amount of attention and money on making the outdoors truly heavenly.

Two ideas are working in my head these days: a lap pool and a multi-level deck. Here is a sketch of a new multi-level deck PLUS areas with groundcover and stepping stones.



Deck
The deck needs to directly extend the floor of the house, visually and practically. The existing deck is some 20' from the house; between it (and retaining walls on both sides of it) is a flat dirt surface (now covered w/ wood chips). It and the deck are both 1'6" lower than the house floors.

One thing I would like to do is to have the deck "flow" down into the redwood grove. That will serve two purposes: the meadow area will become more accessible and included; and the space between the redwood trunks, under the combined canopy will be a perfect place to hang out when the temperature gets up in the upper 90s.

The deck should be broken up in sections, like one for an extension of the kitchen for BBQ'ing; one for entertaining; and a more private area for the master bedroom.

And there should be "built-in" benches, doubling as rails or just dividers.

Pool
I would love to have a lap pool; I am thinking of a size like 10' x 50'.
After a couple of rough estimates it seems like I would incur a cost of $80-90K for a gunnite pool - and I need to add another 20K if I want details like vanishing edge. And I know only a fraction of the investment will be recovered if/when I need to sell the home. An "alternative" is membership of the local swim & tennis club - which will cost me a one-time membership of $18K plus monthly fees. The membership is not transferable and will not be paid back if I move out. Other alternatives are: "endless pool" (too noisy), a fiberglass pool (only saving 10K or so).

I was thinking of putting the pool up at the level of the house. If it was the type with vanishing edge, it would look amazing outside the LR windows. If not, it would be better not to clutter the primary view and instead put it along the bedrooms.

I had first thought of putting in down in the meadow, but it may be less used if it is far away from the bedroom (???). Here is a sketch of the pool with vanishing edge, in front of the LR windows. Note that the existing deck needs be removed to allow for a 0-50 ft pool.

Landscaping - Mr Deer and his large family

So far so good. Liquid Fence seems to be working; at least all 80 plants are still intact - and several generations of deer have been passing by. The other day I had group of 5 bucks visiting - 3 of them made it to the first picture; the two others were even closer.

3D model of the existing home

I have tried to use SketchUp - mostly just learning by doing with occasional glimpses into the user guide. The program has a somewhat steep learning curve - and I may have been trying to use it for details it wasn't meant for. Anyway, I feel the tool was in the way, and for every hour I spent on creating my model I used 1-2 hours repairing things that had gone wrong; for instance, I constantly seem to be loosing "faces" on my walls.
I did manage to create a 3D-model of my house. The file is available here. Note how the roof is 3-level, with about 1 ft of separation between two levels.

Rough photo tour of the home

I am trying to organize many photos of the home as a tour. Here is the very very rough draft...
Tour

Landscaping - drought tolerant / native plants

I'll need to do some new planting. There are bare areas on both sides of the driveway (50' + 30', each 7-10' deep). And I need to plant screening shrubs to block out the down hill neighbors (to the east of the patio), and there is potentially 25'+60' of 5' deep planting area on the top of the retaining wall towards the redwoods. I have to do something to prevent people from accidentally falling down there: either a rail or a planted bed to mark the height difference.

Andrew and Shelley got me connected up with a whole sale nursery who will deliver. I have ordered some 70 plants -- don't know when they will be delivered. I also ordered from Las Pilitas nursery. And I am considering trying out this one as well: http://www.mountainvalleygrowers.com

I picked the plants by cross referencing multiple sources [wow, what an obvious challenge for a mash up exercise]
- PV's lists of recommended native plants
- the nursery catalogs
- Las Pilitas' advice on deer tolerant planting
- Las Pilitas nursery's general plant descriptions

The big question is of course if I should even consider any new planting without having a fence in place. The evening before last I had three bucks come through from the driveway to the back yard.

Speaking of critters, so far I haven't encountered any gophers, but I bet they are around. Which suggests that I get all the planting holes for the shrubs lined with chicken wire.


-

Landscaping - cleaning up

The very first thing I did was to remove a huge concrete slab that made up the patio, and pull out juniper jungles along the driveway and to the east of the patio, and finally to remove the deer pruned photinias between the patio and the upper redwood grove. I think that happened even before I moved in.

I got town approval to remove the old Monterey pine NW of the patio (prominent in the view from the driveway) and the odd palm tree at the opposite end. Both got chopped up and is now used as wood chips to cover the patio (which is pure clay).

Next I put my attention to all the unweildy growth along the (upper half) property lines and in the redwood grove.
Toni came by the previous weekend and got enrolled in the initial pruning: we cut away some parts and marked more heavy areas for Juan, and last week I had his crew take down the two trees and start the pruning work. They also cleared the bottom of the redwood grove so no branch is below 6'. That provided a great opening and allows us to see the grassy meadow through the trunks. Much better. Unfortunately one of the workers got stung by a yellow jacket: he came upon a very active nest in the east-most redwood. I need to have it sprayed.

Roof make-over - reroofing

The current roof is in bad shape here and there. There are active leaks in the overhang in front of the kitchen, and looking at the paint in the bedrooms, there have been leaks all along the south side. And the ceiling in the added-on bedroom has marks of water damage.

The simplest thing would be to have the roof repaired, but that would not resolve two other challenges:

(1) there is very little insulation in the current roof

(2) there is no way of running electrical connections to the ceiling

(3) there may be active termite activity that should be treated and repaired

So, looking into options here, I first looked at Eichler-ish foam roofs. I got a bid from one foam roofer: $18,500 plus $1500 for complete tear down and $2000 for PV required class A fire rating. I.e., $22K plus, of course, the cost of termite repairs and new electrical installations.

The advantage of a foam roof would also be that I could put in a lot of skylights to light up any interior corridor. Each skylight would likely be around $1000-2000

Well, $22K is a lot of money to put into a roof I am not too happy with in the first place. I was thinking about what might make me love a flat roof more. And I thought of Green Roofs, grass or sedum roofs. I wonder if that would be even approachable in costs.

Another re-roofing bid was a bit lower, like $14000, and it would cover putting some composite membrane on (as opposed to the current tar&gravel).

But it is a lot of money to spend on a roof I don't like the shape of!!!

Roof make over - the entryway overhang

My original idea was to raise the entire roof, throughout the house. Vicky's contractor friend did a good job of talking me out of it, primarily suggesting that any substantial roof change would trigger a whole slew of addl. code compliance requirements - not to speak of the long wait to get the case through design review, neighbor review and whatever.

So I have been trying to make peace with the flat roof - at least part of it.

I really want to get some headroom into the entryway, and my immediate idea is to remove the current extension of the garage roof that goes over the entryway overhang, and instead get a new roof or overhang that is either the same level as the bedroom section (extra 1'-1.5') or perhaps even the LR (extra 2'-2.5').

When Steve came by, he was very doubtful about the feasibility of changing the overhang - suggesting it might severely compromise the structural integrity where the current garage beam meets the added-on bedroom wall. Hmm, I cannot see how that can be a major problem. The garage beam is of course resting on som post over there, and there may be a beam in the bedroom wall that, again, rests on the post + end-of-garage beam. But what is the big deal? The post just have to be extended with the height of the garage beam - which is carefully removed. The other end of the garage beam rests on a post in the corner of the garage, and everything there is fine. So the only thing left dangling is the ceiling of the overhang - which I would simply remove. Can someone explain to me why this is so impossible?

Fireplace make-over - bids

The rustic-ness of the current fireplace doesn't do it for me. I dislike the rough texture and multi-level recessed-ness of the concrete block; I dislike the upper mantel and I am not too crazy about the decapitated look of the brick section.

So I contacted Carl, the tile++ guy. We discussed putting slate up. He made clear that a lot of prep would go into getting a level surface for the entire wall section. It would amount to around $2000-2600 plus the cost of slate (~$1000). And it would take him 5 days

I also contacted Kirk, the wall prep guy. He suggested a similar replastering to create a smooth surface, and also possibly a finish with venetian plaster. I think I remember it was $2000 for the smoothing and an addl. $1000 for the finish.

Hmm, I am still not sure any of these solutions are the right one.

I wonder why it has to be so difficult to get an even surface. Why not just shim out with furring strips where the indents are now; put chicken wire on top and then plaster over it, making it smooth...

Longer term plans and desires

I have already opened the topic by starting the discussion about "un-depressing". But perhaps I should just publish the list of things on my mind for change/improvements:

Overall concerns:

Whatever I do, I have to think hard about the resale value of the home: I could not afford living here without my nice salary - and who knows what may happen to Silicon Valley internet biz? It looks like homes out here in Portola Valley are priced around $1000/sf for a good house on a large lot, with a starting price of above $1.5 mill (i.e., price is the larger of 1.5 mill and sf*1000). The current house is undersized by local standards. Luxury homes may trigger higher prices. Thus, increasing its size could be a means of increasing its marketability.

But another concern is that I would want to create something I like for myself !!!!

A possible strategy for increasing the size is an assemblage of modular units linked by a "breezespace". I could build a unit each year and then tie them together... This would clearly be a task for a really good architect to design something as organic and still beautiful.

More detailed concerns:

- the roof is in need of a makeover within the first year; also, the roof is really a combi of three different roofs - with each its height. Only the LR ceiling is really open and spacious.
- the heater is old and noisy – also, I really prefer hydronic heating (not necessary floor heating, but radiators and convection "trenches" as we use in Scandinavia). I truly dislike the noise and radical dryness of forced air heating.

- all the large windows are single-pane, and they are not safety glass. Also, there is really no insulation to speak of in this house.

- oppressive entryway – and no headroom in garage

- the arrangement and sizes of the bedrooms and bathrooms are awkward, and there are way too many doors in awkward places

- all bathrooms are in need of renovation.

- the laundry area is currently in the garage and may be better located in the house near the bedrooms.

- the kitchen is too small and enclosed.

- I would like a library - rather than having all my books in the living room or use a bedroom-made-into-an-office

- I want to have the patio (and the rest of the outside) better integrated in the home. I want a deck at floor level; possibly leading down to a shady area in the middle of the redwood grove.

There are short term problems with the existing house whose solution must coordinate with any long term master plan.


I made a quick design of a new floorplan that better separates the public from the private, provides more generous space and also allow for a more emphasized entryway -- with free visual access to the outside on the south. But the extra "cost" is that I reduce a 3BR/3BA home to a 3BR/2.5BA - which may make it less worth. Who knows? It could also be more worth because it would have more generous spaces. Here it is:

Un-depressing the front of the house

The house looks somewhat depressed - or oppressed? As if it doesn't really think it should be there.
It has some resemblance to Eichler-homes, built in the same timeframe (late 50s-early 60s), in the sense that it has the exposed beams, and the huge glass walls towards the garden (away from the street. And it has a similar non-descript presence towards the street as the eichlers. But it lacks the lift that many Eichlers have from the slanted roofs that open up and make the rooms feel more spacious. My house has completely flat roof -- with all the problems of leakage.

In the outset I was not very keen on the flatness, hogging to the ground. I want something that raises up...

My first thought has been to lift the roof line, possibly providing northfacing clerestory lights. I was thinking of Michelle Kaufman and her Sunset Breezehouse

I also think the entire entry should be made more prominent and opened up, possibly allowing a view to the redwoods on the other side.

However, I found a house that sports a flat roof but doesn't look like it has graduated high in extreme modesty: it is Sarah Nettleton's "sustainable modernist" home. For more details, see http://www.sarah-architects.com/portfolio/sustainable-modernist.html


But "her" house has the advantage of clear lines to begin with. My house is deeply troubled - from a design point of view - by the odd 45 degree angle of the garage and the 3 different roof levels.

Touring the rest of the house

There are three bedrooms, each with its own bathroom. Let's name them after their colors: oatmeal, bluegray and mocha.
I am using the oatmeal bedroom as a study, and its bathroom is the guest bathroom.

The blue-grey suite has far the best views - towards the meadow and the redwood grove.


The mocha bedroom is really the master bedroom (it has w-w carpet whereas all the other rooms have hardwood floors)

It all looks a bit barren because I just had everything painted and I haven't gotten around to put up mirrors, drapes etc.

Tour, Living room: full sweep

If you stand in the middle of the living room, facing the fireplace (which is east), and then do a pan clockwise, you will see something like this -- though depending on what drugs you are on hopefully without the distortion ;-). Click on the image and a large file will load in a separate window.

Then if you walk over to the opening to the kitchen, look out and then do a pan clockwise, you will see something like this.

If you click on the picture below you will get to another humongous file in a separate window.

One of the challenges is the fireplace.
It has a very rustic 50's look: it is a combination of concrete painted blocks and brick, and something about the proportions is just off. Anyway, I don't think it fits my style at all, so I am considering some changes, most likely covering the cement block with drywall and using slate in stead of brick. I have been playing around with designs. My current favorites are these two, but I really prefer the one that goes all the way up: I think it makes the room look taller.

The outside

The home is basically a long, narrow structure - 84' x 15' - with two "things" protruding from it: there is an addition with a bedroom and a bathroom in the west wing, and a garage angling off at a 45 degree angle in the east wing. The length of the structure faces south, and provides the most incredible view towards the Skyline Ridge. My lot is sloping down from the street, with the house up at street level and the other end of the lot some 300' SW, perhaps 40' down.
Most of the lot is a kind of meadow. Here is one of the "view" photos again, this one catching the view from my bedroom.
The lot has many trees, between the house and the street is a large oak grove. Right in front of the house, towards south, is a redwood grove, but otherwise a great view to the Skyline. This is what you see from the living room.


And there is another redwood grove further down in the side of the meadow.

Emergency work

Of course there were some things that needed to be dealt with right away.

(1) Like a mal-functioning septic system (I am paying a fortune to have the house waste connected to the city sewer; it will supposedly happen this coming week)

(2) And removal of sad concrete slabs (patio) and junipers seem to be my destiny: I had tons of concrete and loads of ratty junipers hauled away from the lot on Alameda de las Pulgas back in 1998, and the story is repeated here in 2007. I will soon need to reexamine the shape of the driveway: it has this oh-sooo 50s, tired flare form.

(3) The house had an identity problem. Everything was white'ish and bland: inside and outside. It was hard to discover any structure in all the monochrome. As an emergency I decided to paint the outside brown and carbon (not the best choice: too dark), and use a lot of colors inside to emphasize and lift up the ceiling and exposed beams.

(4) Also, the kitchen felt so enclosed and confined - and the plastic/formica countertops and backsplashes seemed an affront attack on my aesthetic sensibilities. I had my friend Tony do a quick makeover of the kitchen, i.e, tear out the formica, remove the raised bar that made the kitchen seem even smaller, thus allowing a more direct/smooth flow from the kitchen towards the gorgious outside. And an Ikea beech butcher block is always a help agains eye-sores ;-)
Finally, the cabinets and walls got a couple of coats of paints to help them out of the bland whiteness of their past.

My new home!

On 2/28/2007 escrow closed on my new home in Portola Valley, a very modest and honest 1680 sf house that had been declared a tear-down by the previous owner: it was to be replaced by a 4400 sf pastiche of a Tuscan villa. However, their plans changed -- and that was my opportunity to venture into a delightful new challenge.

Here is a floorplan of the house. In case you are reeeeeally interested, you can click here to download the dwg file.


While the realtors' web site is still up, you can go and see how the property was presented:
http://www.plansandtours.com/1055

The most prominent quality of the property is the view! Here are two examples; the first is the view from the living room; the other is from my bedroom (and also the view from the driveway, looking along the right side of the house).



For those interested, here is a repro of the survey, and if you click here you can download the dwg file.

And finally, here is the Google map of the property. What I really love about this place is that it is out in the hills, but I don't have to drive for hours on narrow winding roads. As you will see I am close to main roads and even shopping: Alpine is the nearest cross street, there is a great little shopping strip on the corner of Alpine and Portola, featuring a small hardware store where I usually find at least two out of three things I am looking for, and in the other direction Ladera shopping center isn't far away - with Bianchini's market, coffee shops and several restaurants.