Recessed lights and a flat roof

I had submitted my permit application, assuming I would NOT have ceiling lights. Instead I had advised a system of what I call beam lights, which is basically wall outlets placed on the walls up above the bottom of the exposed beam; they can each feed a track light or a hanging light fixture.
Since then, Mark has been suggested that we put in a lot of recessed lights.

So my question is whether it is possible - and feasible, legal, etc. - to install any kind of recessed lighting within the "sandwich'ed" ceiling/roof construction of (from bottom to top) 1.5" ceiling/roof decking (2x8 T&G), 5/8" plywood, 4-1/2" rigid foam, 1/2" denseboard, roofing membrane. I really don't know what kind of wiring can be run up there, and I know very little about LED lights.

I know that conventional recessed housings are way to tall. What I am wondering is if modern low voltage or LED lighting will allow much more shallow housing.

As far as I know, there is really nothing in the residential market that fit my requirement. But I did find some commercial product series, like PDQ lighting, Solavanti (it looks like Solavanti might be included in the offerings from PDQ), and Wiedamark.

It has been soooooo long since i last posted here

... I will try to catch up
But here are the major events, in reverse chronology:

Sept. 17, 09: Besides some hiccups on the shipping (I had to change shipping company 2 days before the container was packed), the windows got properly inserted into a 20' container - they are now waiting in Aarhus Harbor for a Japanese ship to sail them to Oakland
Aug 28, 09: The 3-4 contenders for the general contract, was gradually reduced to 2 and then 1. Mark is currently contacted to do the first round (up til window installation).
Aug 13, 09: I got my building permit
Aug 4, 09: I finalized the window order and got Simon engaged to come and help with the installation

sinks

Oh my, I regret I didn't think a bit ahead and had a sink included with the window shipment.

I know that resale value concerns speak volume for a 2-sink configuration in the master bathroom, but I think it is a bit of a fad. Perhaps for my house it would be just as important to have two full master suites - "for the mature couple with separate sleeping quarters" as the ad might say ;-)
I bet a single, spectacular, very wide sink would distract from the lack of the obligatory 2 vessel sink configuration and end up looking much more generous and stylish.

I found some really nice and inexpensive ones in my Danish catalogs, as for instance:
My favorite (don't know the brand)

Intra Wing

Now to the usual problem: how to find something equivalent on the US product market?

Here are some candidates:
1. Duravit 049112, $1022:

2. Cantrio, $1553: This one is 60" wide!

3. Neptune form Ira Woods, $675 - 50" wide:

3. good ol' Starck, $712: , a 41.25" wide sink

Unidrains translates to US English: Infinity drains

OK, it turns out I don't need to import the unidrain ;-) There is a product here called Infinity drain, First I learned that they would typically call these linear drains.
The cost of the traditional linear drain, 47" long and 2 7/8" wide, with PVC channel, will cost $704; the kit is called AG 6548.
The modern one with tile frame is TIF 6540 and it would cost $732. Here is the description: "Developed to make the drain disappear the TIF series incorporates tile or solid surface material within the grate frame. Made of 316 stainless steel frame, the TIF 65 uses a PVC channel. Grate lengths at 40". Tile insert 3/4" depth. PVC Channel length, 108" maximum."
Add to the price the tile or solid that needs be put in. I don't see any of the Corian inserts that unidrain carries.

How to - grade beam

I pulled out a lot of hair trying to decipher Mark (SE)'s specs for the grade beam. And I finally ended up with this sketchup drawing:

From gradebeam

As is obvious from the specs, there was no way that all the listed constraints could ever be met, see the picasa picts

the building permit process has started!!

I submitted the plans to the town yesterday, only 10 days after my original deadline ;-)

They are available here as 

1. the architectural plans and title 24

2. the structural drawings (doesn't include the calc; they are not in digital format)

Task list end-of-may

All tasks include necessary demolition and prompt hauling away of debris, reinstallation of weather proofing, electrical runs etc. And cleaning up afterwards.

1. Window replacement and frame adjustments

1a. Measure all opening on drawings for window/door order. Max tolerance accepted is 1/2" on each side. 

1b. Adjust framing to allow all windows and doors to sit sharply in the bays made by existing or new subfloor-to-beam 4x4 posts (possibly made of 2 2x4s). Max tolerance accepted is 1/2" on each side. Windows/doors to start exactly at the bottom of the beam; add posts where current sliders are place under beams. 

1c.  Install strong walls, moment frames or similar as needed on the building perimeter (expected five 2' strong walls). 

1d.  Repair siding as needed

1e   Remove all remaining wood paneling (in LR and entryway)

1f   Add R13 insulation to any wall that is opened up. 

1g    Repair affected walls, sheetrock and mud.

2. Add a 16'x16' addition to the existing house, make roof line continue; NB, does not include installation  of windows/doors and roof surface installation

2a.    excavate, form work and pouring of foundation perimeter wall, make separate entry for crawl space as well as access to "old" crawlspace 

2b.    Frame subfloor, walls, roof; critical:  walls in accordance w/ the window / door plan and order. 

2c [Ignore. In contract with other!]: install windows and doors -  owner to provide all exterior doors and windows; 

2d.    NB: don't include floor installation here !!! covered in item 9

2e.    Provide power outlets and spacing as required by code; assume 1 surface mounted ceiling fixture w/ power supply in conduit inside roof insulation

3. Clean-up fireplace profile: 

3a.    remove mantel, hearth and "decorative" wings to let the front of the fireplace be exactly

the same width as the chimney; 

3b.   Apply plaster and wire mesh to even out the wall surface of entire chimney/fireplace column (think polished concrete for end result). 

3c    Clean and secure internal firefox

3d    Add frameless glass doors in fireplace.

3e    Install travertine hearth set in oak floor, exactly the width of the chimney column 

4. Revise framing support at entry and hallway. 

4a    Replace longest beam entirely 

    4a.1 or enforce longest beam with steel bracing 

    4a.2 or add post and "repair" northern part of compromised beam

4b    Install two 2' strong walls between kitchen and LR

4c    Clear opening to bottom of beam at 45 degree entry wall

4d    "repair" compromised beams to regain strength (structural engineer will advise) and to restore aesthetics

 

5. Resurface or rebuild roof (approx. 3400 sf). In the process replace beams and T&G in decking that has termite damage or dryrot. If rebuilding: apply plywood to stiffen entire roof membrane; add 4.5" solid insulation (R30), fireproofing layer and top membrane. New fascia boards made by two staggered 1x6s (or the like)

6. Replace existing furnace w/ 94+ furnace; rechannel one of the return air ducts away from LR to entryway; recalculate load and rebuild ducts in crawlspace

7. Facade toward N/NW [A6.0]. Revise the appearance of the front facade, including 

7a    Building 18' long wings with concealed gates, parapets reaching 1'7" over roof surface along garage and bedroom toward driveway, 

7b    cut and "wrap" the overhangs, 

7c    apply cedar slatting to walls and parapets, e.g. 3x1 slats set 3/4" apart. NB: accuracy is of the essense. 

7d    Rebuild the garage door framing and door itself. Add slats to this or new garage door. Mount the garage door to become flush with the slatting on the sides.

7X.    Replace all existing siding with new clear Wester Cedar 1x8 T&G siding, select grade, set horizontally (how much over the cost of 1d and slat cladding of 7a)

8    Internal doors - common: trim-less installation, stain grade jambs [A7.0]. NB some doors are included in task 12.

8a    Install a pocket door for separation between kitchen and LR

8b    Build and install 4 slat panels as separation between kitchen and hall - mount two tracks for the panels

8c    Install two 48" wide frameless, etched glass bifold sliding door between between LR and new study

8d    Install three 36" wide solid stain grade doors, maple, to garage, coat closet, north BR. NB, trimless installation

9.    Floors

9a    Install new oak wood floors to match the rest of the house in addition, entry and kitchen area, approx. 706 sf

9b    Refinish / repair all existing floors, approx.1032 sf

10. Driveway [A6.7, C1, C2]

10.1    Demolish existing concrete driveway, haul away. 

10.2    Excavate for 2-3 parking spaces according to marks by arborist (number depends on root system)

10.3    Install steps and landing at entry 

10.4    install 6" wide concrete edging along 1987-addition, 2 feet from wall. 

10.5    Install decomposed granite on proper supporting and graded base; 

10.6    Install up to 3' tall retaining walls to support parking spaces 

10.7    Finish properly at intersection with town property (the street)

11.  [Ignore for now; specs underway from landscape architect] Landings and decks (not including front steps): 

12: [Ignore. In contract with other!]  MBA, powderroom and small hallway [A2.2]

12.1    Demolish walls and closet; resurface beams; remove toilets, tub and sinks. Haul away 

12.2    Restore subfloor at current return air duct; rebuild duct space for  return air nest to existing duct to other BR

12.3    Build new partition walls and clean up edges at removed walls ... 23 lin ft of 8ft tall (6+6+6+5); 

12.4    Install shower section in new MBA;

12.5    Tile work, floor and walls in shower - floor 120sf,  walls 100 sf 

12.6    Install four 36" wide solid stain grade doors, maple, to north BA, powder room, MBA and MBR. NB, trimless installation  [A7.0]

12.7    redo electrical [A8.1]

Owner to provide all plumbing fixtures (for 3 sinks, 2 toilets, shower). Installation of backing/support, verify location w/ owner

13: Reorganize and upgrade other BA [A2.2]

13.1    Demolish short wall; toilets, tub and sinks. Haul away 

13.2    Build tub/shower section, 

13.3    tile work, floor and walls in tub/shower section, floor: 42sf; walls: 60sf

13.4    redo electrical [A8.1]

Owner to provide all plumbing fixtures (for 1 sinks, 1 toilets, shower/tub combo). Installation of backing/support, verify location w/ owner

14: Insulate crawlspace

15. [Not likely:] fabricate and install alu-supported trellis system of 4 feet wide redwood louvers along the south side (100 ft) [A6.6]

16: [Ignore. In contract with other!] Reorganize and upgrade kitchen [A2.2, A7.3]

17.    Painting 

17.

landscaping desires

To sum up my requirements for the landscaping

1. Overall modern look - needs to "play well" with the mid-century modern house
2. Preserve the panoramic view of the Skyline ridge as well as the depth view down the meadow
3. Block the view of Alpine and the eastside neighbor's garden and house
4. Provide sitting areas near the house for various purposes and weathers:
- sheltered seating on windy days (strong wind coming in from SSW)
- sitting outside to read a book, all year round (close to house)
- shady area for sitting when it is very hot
- ... etc
5. Only drought tolerant and deer tolerant planting, natives or otherwise "fitting" plants
- OK with watering for the first 2 years - till established
- only exception to drought tolerance will be a pots/containers around the house perimeter and deck
6. Design planting for all seasons. I don't want a landscape that looks OK only for a couple of weeks each year.
7. Planting must be chosen for ease of maintenance. In particular, avoid plants that look ratty in off seasons, or make sure they are covered by other plants
8. Consider fencing off a small section to allow fruit trees to grow w/o being chewed up by the deer (only if fencing would add to the aesthetics)

Ideas:
a. plant trees/shrubs at different levels to get enough height to screen out Alpine
b. plant grasses and such at the front driveway to give a cleaner look
c. Possibly add a shed or small cabin in front under deck
d. plant shrubs along front fence to gradually make fence be unnecessary (as it will fall apart anyway within a couple of years

kitchen archetypes - Alrum concept

One challenge in designing the open kitchen is to make the overall look calm and simple. Too many different materials and too many lines will give a confused look. That holds mostly for the long wall.

First I tried the most obvious (I think) design with a wall of cabinets and an island in front, each with either the sink or cooktop. I modeled it with IKEA kitchen designer as well as VectorWorks renderer, and I came to realize that the calm look I am striving for cannot really be done if the wall surface is extensively broken up - by either a sink or a cooktop.

And if sink and cooktop instead are both in the island, then that will have to be at least 9' long to allow for sufficient space on the sides of each work place. So this is bad news for some of my "domino" concepts from a previous blog post (i.e., the partial overlapping of a dining area and the island just doesn't work - there is not room enough for sink + cooktop + seating.

So if I am to make the long wall un-busy, here are 6 different concepts for the kitchen. For each "archetype" I have estimated the utilitarian value in terms of # sf of usable counter space (excl. sink and cooktop) and # sf of shelf/drawer space

I think I have too little space to make the dbl. niche (4) look really stunning; and I am not really sure the single niche (5) is a good idea from a visual point of view though I still like the idea of putting all the dirty dishes away ;-)

Although there are less cabinet space in the horseshoe, it will likely be the most expensive solution since so much has to be customized. But it is intriguing
The two orthogonal island solution (2 and 3) could both be made wider if I don't need a separate freestanding table.

The double island provides tons of space, but unfortunately it is a bit tight as a 2 person work area. There ought to be 4' between the two islands to allow people to pass one another; but here I have only 3' or so (The total of 15'2" would be divided into 6' for island space and approx 9' to be equally divided between the three passage area). I could take out the shallow cabinets from one of the islands, or i could assume that the sliding door toward the hall will be open most of the time and therefor allow only 2' between island and wall (toward hall).

Landscaping questionnaire

(from a questionnaire on Bob Cleaver's web site)

PROJECT DESIRES:

I have 1 acre of land, and the nature here is magnificent and it seems a violation to impose on it - but perhaps we can give it a gentle helping hand ;-) Because for now 2 years (since I bought it), I feel I have not really been able to enjoy the outdoors.

As mentioned before, here are specific challenges:
1. getting visual screening to neighbor and Alpine road
2. establishing outdoor "rooms" where I would like to hang out - and not have to wear parkas and mittens to shield for the winds
3. trying to make good sense of 1 acre is too much for my own design skills: I would like to have the basics established - the "good bones" - so it would be easier for me to take on small projects


Describe your family members and their primary outdoor activities to be done at home.
- family = me
- ideally: hanging out with a book, my work, or entertaining (mostly grown-ups)

Describe what kind of gardeners you are or wish to be.
- lazy! or rather unpredictable, occasionally inspired to do new planting, pruning, etc ;-)
- and for the ongoing maintenance in the past I had a self-taught helper spend approx. 6 hours every week ( every other week during winter months) checking irrigation and drains, cleaning, weeding, doing small projects for me etc.

---

List the elements that you would expect to see in your garden.

Veggie garden:
mostly as planters near the kitchen - i.e., herbs, tomatoes, basil

Mini orchard??? In my previous home (Emerald Hills in Redwood City) I had dozens of cherry, almond, peach and plum trees plus several citrus trees. Most of them were old but producing faithfully. Only the citrus and peaches needed significant watering in growing season.

New entry
yes! Some serious work is needed to make the entryway more "communicative": where to go, where to park the car, ... and more inviting

Play area for children ages ?
N/A

Entertainment area (how many guests, how often, when, what type of event?)
informal garden parties, food/buffet, wine etc. for unpredictable number of people (12-28)

Meadow
I bought this property very much because of the unfettered view down towards the far (low) end of the meadow and then I raise the eyes gradually seeing depths of trees, ending with the Skyline ridge in the very back.
I absolutely don't want this area "manicured" or overly structured/built

List accomplishments you would like in your garden.

A quiet corner
I love to sit outside and work - under trellis or umbrella; problem with winds! It has to be close to the house; otherwise I am not likely to move out there with books, computer etc.
It is tempting also to think of small seating areas in the top oak grove (between street and house), in the lower redwood grove. Thinking of places to be when it is way too hot, or when it is way too windy on the south side

A dramatic scene for viewing
Important not to obstruct my million dollar view. My view is in several dimensions. Both a panoramic 180 degree view of the hills. And the expanse of the view looking from the house downwards to the end of the property. There is a beautiful oak down there, with lots of moss hanging from its branches.....

Privacy from the street
I need some planting to block the look into the LR and future study, but the planting must be in harmony with the oaks.

Find a balance about deer:
I could fence in the property and be over with the deer problem, but I kind of like to see the deer pass through in the early evening. I am leaning towards potentially fencing in a part (orchard) and just be selective on plants and diligent w/ liquid fence

A style and what that means to you:
Native Californian - but I am not a fundamentalist ;-) - To me it is important that the plants look like they are "at home" and that they like the climate and doesn't need too much fuss (water, care, etc).. So, I prefer native and drought tolerant plants both ecologically and aesthetically - however, I also love orchards ;-)
Drought tolerant - but again, I am not unreasonable: it would be ok to irrigate in the first couple of years to get the plants established and get some early fast growth, but the end goal should be an extremely drought tolerant landscape
In terms of hardscape and decor: I am a severe minimalist, with a lot of appreciation of a single surprising and possibly not-at-all-useful effect if it is clever!. I like when plain materials are being used in interesting new ways, e.g. a plant trellis made of rebar that looked beautiful against a stucco wall. Plain sidewalk concrete pavers can look beautiful if cut in interesting shape (e.g., into halves on the long side), laid with thyme or similar green stuff between


List your likes/dislikes/things that have impressed you.

A certain color(s), plant type
Absolutely no pansies -- How about a million different sages and grasses

Other gardens you have enjoyed and why
I admire the designs of piet oudolf - can spend hours drooling over his books (e.g., designing with plants).
I have seen pictures of some of Ron Lutsko's landscapes and find them beautiful, stunning



BASE INFORMATION:

Site Plan:

Property boundaries with bearings and distances (or limit of project area)
Here is a survey file with all the contours etc. It is a pdf file that - if opened from acrobat, will print out to scale in 24" x 36" format
http://www.goldenoak.us/SurveyNov2008.pdf - I also have a dwg file if preferred...

Location of house, proposed additions, other structures, trees, special site features
- (see above)
- And check out http://picasaweb.google.com/elinsphotos/GardenPerimeter# There are a couple of pictures of the existing perimeter planting plus a photo of a site analysis that was done last year; I am not sure it is very helpful though.
- I have a copy of a 2004 soil report (http://www.goldenoak.us/SoilReport.pdf) - originally created for the planning of the Tuscan villa that the prev. owners designed for the lot.


Elevations of site improvements, 2’ contours (elevations) of site
(see survey)

Architecture:

Footprint of foundations
I can provide drawings if we go forward

Door/window locations at all levels
Still being worked on w/ architect
Room descriptions

Elevations of building facades
Finished floor level approx 18" above ground on south side, approx. 12" on north side

Future additions anticipated
I can provide drawings if we go forward

More Velfac - even more relevant now

The discovery of Milgard's less-than-pleasing level of finish was a setback. I know I am awfully picky and not everybody would be willing to go through all the trouble of importing etc. just because of wacky miters and sloppy gaskets. But I am ;-)

So the Velfac find is becoming relevant. Even more because both Lars and Leif said Velfac is likely the best I can get for my application.

Here is a handle to the window-door-schedule that I would like to have priced.

Milgard windows and doors

Bad news on the window front. I had thought it would be a no-brainer to go with the Milgard aluminum windows. I mean, how hard can it be not to screw up the design of a simple modern alu-window?
I went and took a closer look at Milgard aluminum windows, and I found they looked really tacky.

The rubber gaskets creep out and bulge at the corners	The hardware is really unpretty	... and I hate the cranks
Ugly mitered corner	No thermal break
From WindowReview

Velfac

Velfac is a Danish window manufacturer who looks really promising. I like their 200 series with very narrow profiles, and then they have all this crisp hardware that I so miss in US windows and doors. Like narrow vent in the frame or the friction brake:


And they have a UK/Ireland distribution so the documentation is available in English (http://velfac.co.uk).
I'll check with Leif (my architect brother) and Lars from Arkitema to hear what they know about quality etc.
And I am sending off a request for pricing to the Danish sales office.

kitchen thinking - plans/sketches

Bob did some quick sketching of the idea of swapped kitchen/family with eating area in the kitchen. He preserved the definition of two rooms/two functions. As he said: it was quick and he had not put a lot of thoughts into whether there should be walls between or not.

I decided to play around with the "alrum" idea, staying within the parameter of using the 4 bays for kitchen&family with space for eating in kitchen:

A: Make the family room and kitchen be one big room; use the west wall for floor to ceiling cabinets, and provide an eating area in connection with a large multi-function island.
B: Make a pantry in the west-most bay, and provide an eating area in connection with a large multi-function island
C: Use the west-most bay to create 2 niches into which the most messy part of the kitchen stuff goes, leaving one "clean" profile for the open kitchen. The island could be the multi-function as in idea A and B, or just a large cooking and food prep island.

kitchen thinking - a few design concepts

Three kitchen concepts keep coming back to me:

1. niches or pantries: the HTH kitchen shows two niche - they serve to de-clutter the open kitchen



2. the countertop that continues down the side: my Seattle kitchen used the countertop idea from Kvik's mano kitchen. From SeattleKitchenFinal



3. partly overlapping breakfast place and kitchen island, as for instance in Randers/Arcos:

kitchen thinking - locations

The question of how/where to place the kitchen is up again. I am a bit of worried about the planned kitchen (see also posting from Thursday, February 5, 2009):

My first thought was it looked like a dentist reception or ticket booth, and my second thought was 'not enough useful cabinet space'. It continues to nag me... from both a functional and aesthetic perspective.
Addressing the aesthetic issue: I think the current (-ly planned) location would work much better if the kitchen was a true island - with no walls at all. But it would certainly accentuate the functional concern (about too little cabinet space).
The more I look at the plan, the more tempted I am to move the kitchen two bays west, allowing us to take advantage of the wall towards the BR/BA section of the house. That raises some functional issues: what happens to the family room and where would the dining area go - if anywhere.
Bob thinks that swapping the kitchen and family room will make the distance from the kitchen to the dining area (in the west end of the living room) too far. And he thinks that a family room is important for resale and that it also would make the living room too big / too long if it didn't serve multiple purposes (e.g., LR and DR).

Now, I think one of my problems is that I don't really know what a family room is; I never had one. It seems somewhat different form the "alrum" we have in Denmark - which is mostly a large multi-function room with places for cooking, dining, bill paying, homework; usually we don't have both a dining area and an alrum. And it would not be the primary TV watching location, I think.

What would I use an "alrum" for?
- cooking, everyday dining
- listing to music or radio, watching TV (very little)
- sorting mail and possibly bill paying (to prevent that they get burried in the mess of my office)
- garden planning
- fitness? possibly a place for a gym ball and the wii setup (requires some free space)
This suggests a couple of comfortable chairs (my 3 BM chairs? or the BM loveseat? not room for both). Cabinets with drawers and shelves, and possibly a smaller writing area. Possibly a TV that is mounted on a tiltable, turnable arm. Music system setup (where to place speakers?). And ample floor area (possibly: easy-to-move furniture).

naked feeling

it feels so naked and exposed...
Finally I gave in after one year of procrastination and three different landscape designers who had all been adamant about the need to clear up the "junk growth" along the property line toward the Corley's before we could do any planting. I had resisted because I feared the barren look, but then I thought 'to h*** with it'; at least they were in good agreement about which shrubs needed to go, and I had them all marked properly. So I had Dieter come and cut down all the marked shrubs.

Ouch!!! the photo is taken from the SW corner of the house (interesting to compare with this photo from last year)



Perhaps I should just install a solid 6' fence to at least screen the unsightly concrete pad in the bottom of the neighbor's garden.

Still no solution to the perimeter planting

I haven't had too much luck finding a "plant architect". Here is my best attempt to describe what I need:

I don't need general proposals of what plants might have the necessary characteristics, like drought tolerance, deer tolerant, easy care, native or "fitting" into the local plantscape, etc. I can get such lists online, from the online tools from Las Pilitas Nursery as well as the various UC extensions plant databases.

What I need is a "plant architect": a highly skilled and plant-oriented landscape designer who can do the intricate work of "structural" and functional design - by structural I mean a plan for where certain heights and densities are needed; by functional I mean the choices of specific plants, reflecting knowledge about more about growth patterns:

1. STRUCTURE: coming up with the best "structural" solution for a screening. I am convinced the solution will include:
1a: layered planting for fast but also durable screening, possibly composed of "temporary" fast growing trees and scrubs to work until more permanent planting has had time to develop and get height.
1b: layered planting to provide screening both in height (screen off Alpine) and lower (screen off neighbor)
1c: leveled planting up the slope towards the house - as another way of getting height

2. FUNCTION: coming up with specific plants that will serve the roles required by the "structural" plan, that work well together and that will provide interest for the eye.

While I have met several excellent landscapers with great skills on the functional level, I have so far not been successful in finding someone with experience and flair for the structural design.

Light map of screening needs

One of the major tasks is to plan and implement planting for the perimeter facing Alpine.

The photo below shows the places where light from Alpine and Los Trancos traffic shines through

Photo of actual lights from Alpine Road traffic, and x's added for where the car head lights were seen on neighboring photos. The x hovering tall in the trees to the left shows where Los Trancos Road emerges and winds down towards alpine

Plan sketches from February

From Picasa web album DesignFeb2009

Revised floorplan (ignore the study niche in the garage, abandonned):


Elevation, north facing side - with study addition to the east (left most);

Shading needs at different times of year

I ran through the year on the current SketchUp model of the home, and found that the current 4' overhang works well between April 15 and August 27, i.e., 134 days a year.

I also found that an overhang that extends 6 ft further out would do additional shading, namely Feb 15 to Oct 26, i.e., 254 days a year. Such an overhang would unfortunately start fighting the view of the mountain ridge. And we still have more than 100 days of potential sun "problems".

BTW, I also tried the model at 3pm, looking at a person sitting down near the window (like my current work situ). With the current overhang, she would be bothered by sun in her eyes from Oct 16 to Feb 28. With a 10' overhang she would not have any direct glare problems.

Summing up the most urgent questions

1. What is the cost of getting the ceiling up to 9' in kitchen study/fam?
Assuming the new entry and hallway have a 9’ ceiling, like the living room, it is an open question what to do about the ceiling in the kitchen and family room: keep it at its current current 8’, or raise it the level of the LR ceiling? How much would it cost extra to make the kitchen and (former) study be 9’ to ceiling? (Remember that the entire roof will need to be resurfaced anyway)

2. What is the cost of bringing the windows and doors up 10"?
I would like to know what is the true cost of bringing all south and north facing windows up to the ceiling, versus just running them to the bottom of the beams. The former would require some structural enforcement from above and the windowpanes are larger than what are normally available in the residential market.

3. What is the cost of an 86 sf niche versus a 165 sf addition to the NE corner?
I would like to understand if it makes sense to convert garage space into a study niche or whether the same money could be used to get higher quality space from a regular addition.
a. The price tag of converting 86 sf of garage to somewhat irregular conditioned space: Initially assumed to be low since we stay within the existing building envelope. However, all utilities have to be relocated away from the wall between living room and garage, ie. foundation work to allow the ducts to enter somewhere else, relocation of all plumbing and electricity to new laundry place, intricate framing (e,g, use existing overhang for the first 4’ of the niche and then drop to garage ceiling for the next 3’6”), new walls, custom build shelving, fancy sliding door. Degree HVAC estimates the extra work for them would amount to just over $3k.
b. The cost of a simple addition, 160-170 sf, sharing walls with living room and garage; same roof height as living room. Either slab or crawlspace.
Other pros and cons:
Con, study niche: serious lack of storage space in the garage.
Pro, study in addition: potentially a 3rd bedroom (better resale value).

Garage door quotes

I have been quite determined to replace the garage doors and I had been thinking about glass garage doors. I got two quotes"
- Overheaddoors, $5100 ?? brand; 1 year warranty
- RW garage door, $6800 - a wayne dalton product w lifetime warranty

Now, a very different approach would be to work with what I have. I got a quote for installing an automatic opener (3/4 HP) from
- Econo garage doors, $590
I would then have some 5K left to spice up the look of the door ;-)

Exterior shades

A cool (ha-ha) idea would be to embed blinds/shutters in the deck and have a mechanism that allows them to roll up to the right height to block the sun - without obstructing the view above? I was wondering if it was just an idle "crazy" thought of yours or whether you had looked into such devices.

I talked with my architect yesterday and he was basically bemoaning that such devices didn't exist (he actually suggested it was a green business opportunity just waiting to be exploited). I googled around afterwards, and I found some rather ugly ones in the Carolinas http://www.alucraftshutters.com/products/pullup.htm
It looks like some Australian companies might have this kind of products: HelioScreen and Issey. I emailed them but they haven't responded back yet.

Thinking that it could not be right that only one company in the world is producing such things I went on and wasted a couple hours finding only some very industrial models - among others LawrenceDoors - which by the way costs in the order of $15K for an 18' long shutter plus - the LawrenceDoors tech warned me - likely a lot of cost to design a way to make it look good in a residential setting.

A problem of search phrases: One problem is of course to choose the right search phrases, Here are some useful ones:
exterior blind/exterior shade/shutter/grille
rolling/bottom-up/pull-up/inverse operation

Another problem is what I want to accomplish
I'll give it a try:
1. Reduce radiation of heat in->out
winter: from sunset till sunrise; raise to full height
summer: not really needed

2. Reduce radiation of heat out->in
winter: no real need
summer: from noon till sunset; raise gradually to full height

3. Reduce direct sun/glare
winter: from mid-morning till sunset; upper half
summer: no real need except, perhaps, for late PM; the overhang takes care of this

Hmmm.
There is a strong need for some device that will stop outward radiation at night. Low-E and gass filled dual pane will do some of the job, but they may not be sufficient. The traditional remedy is of course curtains, but (1) I don't really like most curtains because they clutter the view and (2) I am not the diligent kind of person who draws the curtains before heading out to work.
The exterior screens would be most useful if they allow a pretty good view out through the covering part. A device with thin, wide horizontal slats might be ideal.

Another entry door and another garage + entry door

Here is a pretty amazing door - found it in ad material from Heliogreen (http://www.helioscreen.com.au/green/); they didn't say where the door came from.
The simpson door below looks so sad and boring next to this one.


And in the BAU 2009 (Architecture and Construction tradeshow in Munich) listings I stumbled over this design of flush garag doors. They are from Belu in Germany:

What about entry doors and side doors

I realize that I haven't paid lot of attention to door types.
Searching for aluminum doors mostly brought sliders, and a ton of Chinese wholesale cos.
Perhaps I should look for steel. Here is one, MilanDoors. Though it is way too flashy - kind of over-designed.
Also, I need to find a very neutral one for the GBR and MBA - to go side by side with picture windows.

A very nice door is this Simpson viewsaver TDL. And some of their impact resistant doors are also pretty in all their simplicity. A link to their site is here. Here is a link to a catalog .

BTW, I found a place in Los Angeles that has mahogany french doors - not that I am currently looking for some, but here is the link anyway. They seem to be quite affordable, but it may be lousy quality - who knows.

Windows from Milgard

As I created a list of windows and doors for estimating ballpark cost of complete replacement, I got really nervous: the price was growing steadily toward 50K, using the prices from Palo Alto Glass (Fleetwood pictures and Blomberg sliders) for extrapolation.

So I tried to put the measures into the online store, http://www.1stwindows.com/ using Milgard aluminum series as lead. And my window/door list (configuration 2, windows going "only" to bottom of beam).

I got a total of less than $15K for 24 windows and doors - but the 6 picture windows are only 60" wide (should be 67 3/4") ; the total would be just above $17K if I replaced the 60" wide picture windows with 67 3/4" wide sliders.

Still missing from the total are 4 swing in doors and 1-2 skylights. But we are far from 50K....

NB: the window/door list is not at all the final spec; for instance, no thoughts have yet gone into venting and such. This is just to get the general direction of pricing!

People who live in glass houses should not throw stones ...

OK, what do I really think about the glass house idea? Of course, there are people who has actually tried living in one - wonder if Dr. Farnsworth is still around for an interview ;-) [oops, I read that she actually sued Mies van der Rohe].
Anyway, what do I think?

I want to make sure that it isn't a completely un-green idea - just imagine all the eco-terrorists descending on my fragile glass house!

So, the major concerns are ventilation, energy, and privacy. Let me address them in that order.

Ventilation: Ventilation and cross ventilation are important! I am uneasy about all the huge windows and doors, because they do not offer good ways of keeping a steady air-flow. Also, I don't want to sleep with open doors; and I have had enough (two!) burglaries here to believe that I can leave any windows open during the day time.

Energy is a huge issue. Using the sketch for the "glass house" I calculated that roughly 45% of the wall space is rough openings for glassy surfaces - subtract something for door frames etc, let's say we have 40% glass. BTW, all the details can be found in this document.

Glass types: I'll have to choose the right glass. Right now I get a lot of sun and heat in during the day - and at night I loose a lot of heat through the huge window panes. So the goals are:
1. keep warmth indoor in cold times; prevent indoor warmth to spill out at night: low-E
2. keep warmth outside; prevent indoor cool to spill out during the day: ????
Honestly, I am not up-to-date on energy glass, so someone please help me.

Overhang and awnings: The 4' overhangs on the south side are useful in the middle of the day in the summer, but less effective in the afternoon, and throughout the day in fall and winter. I can get awnings and sun shades (for exterior use); the could be attached to extent the overhang.

Shades and blinds: I can get blinds and solar shades (for interior use).
However, if I choose to bring the windows all the way up to the ceiling - and spend addl. 25K on framing to allow these taller windows - it would be pretty silly to clutter up the top of the windows with blinds and such. The traditional Eichler solution is, as far as I know, vertical blinds - but I really find them ugly - at least these, often stained and yellowed plastic strips that most often are bend or turned out of alignment.

Privacy is partly taken care of by having the private rooms more closed to the street, and in general putting in "stoppers" (gate, planting, etc) between the street and the house. But I will still need to factor in some practical window covering system. It would be neat if the house could close itself off at night.

kitchen and study needs, and universal design

1. Kitchen: available cabinet space (shelf feet) is a bit on the low side - at least as I am reading the sketch; I get something like 50 shelf feet all included. The openness prevents us from using wall cabinets in the kitchen niche. Perhaps I should count in the 14” linear feet of cabinets on the west side of the family room? But that would be too far away from the dining table …

a. Perhaps it would make sense to cut back the legs of the “horseshoe”. Currently there is 4’ from the counter ends to the window. If we put a 12’ long line of low cabinets in – with French windows or sliding windows above to make it easy to reach through to the patio – we would be up at 60-65 shelf feet (adding 24 and subtracting 9-15 out of the first configuration). But such a credenza may turn out to compromise the glasshouse concept???

b. Another idea is to swap functions: move kitchen&family to the current living and dining room, and use the garage niche for pantry. It would provide lots of shelf feet. But what about the study? See below…

2. Garage niche: I really like the idea of the study niche – it is such a great idea. However, what may seem like a simple addition that make use of existing footprint, may actually be a demanding solution. The problem spot is all the infrastructure that currently sits in and along the wall between garage and living room. While it may be reasonably straight-forward to re-pipe the water and sewer, the heating system may be more costly. Relocating the heating system will likely require complete new ducting, new gas line run to wherever we put it, and some magic way of fitting 10” return air + 14”+10”+8” warm air (HVAC person’s guess about current ducts leading out of the furnace) into the crawlspace). If we don’t touch the HVAC part, there is only 7-8 feet width available for the niche. So what are the alternatives?

a. Perhaps the cost of making the study niche is not much higher than it would be to integrate a 12x15 feet addition on the NE side? It could be used as a study, and some of the same effects that the study garage niche would be possible: i.e., opening up to get the full view and closing off when things need be tidy. The question is if the big kitchen island will obstruct most of the view. On the other hand. It would be beautiful with my 58” tall bookcases on the north wall with clerestory windows above, showing off the oak grove.

b. The niche, in its reduced form, could be a pantry to a relocated kitchen (see Kitchen idea (a) above). Actually, we would not have to do anything in the garage right away, just make sure there is designed for a door later on.

Here is a sketch that reflects the idea mentioned above idea - click on the image to download it as a pdf file.


Universal design: One of the major advantages of my home over most other PV homes is that it is single floor. I promise myself to consider universal design throughout this remodel, e.g., think generous door openings, get rid of "hard-to-negotiate" corners. I would have liked less of a maze in the access to the MBR. Also remember to put backing (?) into walls to allow later attachment of grab bars. And make a no-threshold shower.
I wonder if the wall at the end of the hall should be pushed back to the beam - think disabled access! Or would this be the place for a laundry closet?


Closet space in MBR: I like the expansion of closet space and drawers - I hope there is an inexpensive way of making it look like a continuum

Kitchen cabinet needs

What is "enough" cabinet space? Using my Seattle kitchen, which had a small footprint but enough storage space, here are some numbers (see sheet: Kitchen shelf space)

73 "shelf feet" of kitchen storage
10.5 "shelf feet" of low drawers
50 "shelf feet" of helves or tall drawers: of which only 6' must be full depth
12.5 "shelf feet" for special items, like dishwasher, oven, sink and fridge

Variations on siding

It is only so much I can play out the color varations in photoshop; the actual light/shade variation will likely change from color to color.
Here are three different schemes: (1) the current dark brown, (2) a grey-blueish color to match the hills over on Skyline, and (3) untreated pale cedar.

To paint or not to paint....

I wonder if there is a color theory for exterior paint and how the contrasts between shade and sun exposure works. Or whether we all have to learn it the hard way. I definitely learned that the way brown behaves in Seattle and in Portola Valley is very different.

My house is so dark that it sits there as a dark blob most of the day. Though, the brown color is reasonable light as soon as it is NOT in shade. Here is two variations snapped out of the same photo.

I wouldn't know how other colors would work. For instance, if I expend a fortune on new cedar siding - just to find out that it too is a dark indiscriminate blob!

termites

Just discovered a termite infestation right in the middle of one of the 4x10 beams in the living room.
This lump, hanging from a pin hole less than 1/8" in diameter, is just fascinating - but of course also depressing.

Siding

I really don't like the dark brown siding, and since a lot of the siding will be affected when new windows and doors are put in, this is the perfect time to rethink the "dressing".

So let me do some doc of what I have.... Here is a picture of the siding seen from below


It is shiplap with bevels only on one side. And I think its dressed thickness is close to 11/16", does that sound right?
Here is a diagram I found at www.redwoodlumberco.com/siding.htm. Looks familiar. BTW, they have this booklet with all kinds of redwood profiles- may come in handy one day)

After the remodel, we will have the following areas left for siding: 700 sf house siding + 340 sf garage + 130 sf garage door

Some options are:

1. New cedar siding of everything- estimate: $17000-25000
   
   • variation: make garage walls stucco or rather cement board- estimate: ???? BTW, the beauty of this idea is that we can salvage a lot of siding boards (though the siding boards are 94" and 106", respectively, on the GBR addition and on the "old" box. Will this be a show stopper?)


2. Dismantle siding, and remount with boards inside out - estimate: ????


3. Strip paint from current siding, clean, prep, and stain - estimate $7000 + labor to patch siding at new windows
   
   • variation: make garage walls stucco or rather cement board- estimate: ????


4. Repaint entire siding - estimate $3000 + labor to patch siding at new windows

Wall:	if windows go to roof	If windows stops under beam
house north:	108 sf (12 lf)	114 sf
house east:	8 sf	8 sf
house south:	108 sf (12lf)	192 sf )
house west :	176 sf	176 sf
house north 2:	64 sf	64 sf
house west 2:	24 sf	24 sf
house north 3:	80 sf	85 sf
house east 2:	120 sf	120 sf
house north 4:	0	10 sf
house nw:	0	0
garage sw:	32 sf	32 sf
garage nw:	32 sf	32 sf
garage nw - garage door:	130 sf	130 sf
garage ne:	160 sf	160 sf
garage e:	120 sf	120 sf

Garage doors revisited

This is what I have now: a 16' wide tilt-up, one-piece garage door, that doesn't provide a whole lot of headroom - but my prius and myself are fine underneath it ;-)

So what is my problem? Just as I don't like trim indoor, I dislike the kind of "picture frame" that is created by the trim around the garage door. Another problem is the huge surface that the door makes.

I thought of putting in a glass garage door. They come in prices from $5100 all the way up to $15000, I guess with corresponding quality. A glass garage door would only work if the entryway and the guest BR window matched in patterns. Only the more expensive versions offer such corresponding doors. And I am not 100% sure I think a glass garage door is the best way to add style to my pseudo Eichler.

What other ideas can I think of? Well, Bob's Los Altos home had a differently "framed" garage face; a bit like Neil Jackson's... an emphasis on vertical geometry by making the wall between the top of the door and the roof a continuation of the garage door, and by de-emphasizing the sides of the door and make the lines continue from floor to roof.


Here is a sketch of the idea, as a before and after:




I wonder if we can just remove the "decorative" trim around the current garage door, fix the siding (and in the process close the wide gap on the right side). I could possibly add some 1x1 moulding strips to create a slightly more exciting pattern - though I wonder if it will be adding to much weight to an already heavy door?

I have not been able to find any local garage doors of this style, found a couple Australian ones though. Here is a sketch of a simple cedar plank door: