Integrating the overhang

Ever since I heard about the ban of roof overhangs*** after the S.Cal wild fires I have been thinking of whether an integration - or annexation - of my 4' wide overhangs would be feasible. The Jan 2008 floorplan proposal (swapping public and private) already does a bit by taking the LR roof overhang over the garage and making it into a corridor.

A first thought is that it would be a great way of getting Nana doors (?) - simply building out the floor and finishing off at the edge of the overhang with the bi-part, n-fold window wall.

The problem is of course the posts - they are between the current windows. Would it be odd to have a row of posts 6 feet apart and 4 feet from the windows. I am not 100% convinced that the integrated space would be really useful, at least not on the window/view side: it would be hard to furnish this narrow strip. If the living room space stays with its current function, the "strip" on the garage side could be either corridor to a new room on the NE side, or a mini library - or both.

Focusing only on the south side AND only on the Eastern "box" that has the tall ceiling (assuming that the Western "box" will be completely rebuilt), what is the cost-benefit equation of annexing the space under the overhang?

+ added 108K resale value (using avg. sf value of $750 and 36x4 sf)
- costing $XX in new foundation and basic framing
0 neutral in cost of new windows and doors since I would need to replace anyway
+ easy accessible space to use for installation of convection heat
- not easy to use the new space
- "break" in flooring, assuming the old oak floor is worth preserving
- new sun screening may be needed, like a new louvered (adjustable?) - see for instance here


*** I think I have learned that it is vented overhangs that are banned, not the ones I have. Nevertheless, it doesn't hurt to think about changing them since they do give the home a certain dated look.

Driveway and lights

I am leaning towards building retaining walls from 6x6 pressure treated posts - like Tony did in Seattle. I got the idea that a slight modification of the design would provide a very inexpensive exterior lighting.
The idea is to make a small recessed line, just under the top piece, for instance by adding a 2x4 to the stack.
Dieter came by and suggested he could replace the current rotten boards with natural stone - estimated cost $4000. This idea would unfortunately preserve the flare form. He promised to leave good spacing so we can later remove the concrete without damaging the walls. So I said OK. He will not mortar the stones (which represent at least 1/2 the cost), so I can later dismantle and rebuilt in other shape.
Dieter also put in basic low voltage lighting along wall. It is kind of pathetic, just marking the edge of the driveway, not lighting up - though I am not sure I often need it really lit?

More fiddling with the floor plan

Transposing the floorplan onto the lot plan revealed that the new carport would be angled awkwardly - or alternatively that a lot of dirt would have to be moved. So here is another take on mostly the same ideas.

Unidrain

I can't believe I haven't mentioned Unidrains before. A MUST for any new shower I will be designing. Here is a picture of the drain, and this is a link to the site

Driveway REDO

I don't like concrete - at least not the standard concrete slabs of last century. In a real estate ad I saw a patio taht I like. It may not be usable for a driveway though. Variations: there can be grass, thyme or gravel between the large pavers. The pavers can be flagstone or concrete.

I don't think the entire driveway should be paved. It might look better with driving strips from the public road till the central driveway/entryway.



Or perhaps more appropriate for a driveway there is this design (from http://www.inhabitat.com/2005/11/27/light-emitting-tiles/)

Prefabs

All along I have been looking closely at prefabs as an alternative to - or perhaps supplement to - remodeling. While most designs are interesting, I have to admit that only a few have really got me excited. Some of the house designs are also pretty pricey.
Houses: Early on I got hooked on Michelle Kaufman's Breeze house (mentioned in one of the earliest postings). It is still my favorite for a "real" house
Guest houses: I recently found the EcoSpace cabin.

Research needed for costing a remodeling

Depending on the size and cost of the project it may trigger some additional required works, like:

1. Automatic fire sprinklers (PV council meeting minutes and Woodside, ordinance). Access is also a hot issue in the fire ordinance. I may not need to change of driveway, but it would make it easier to get in and out if we cut the corners outside the gate

2. Undergrounding electrical supply line (may not be needed since I do not need to change the main panel - which is 200A).

I will try to get a better grip on these potential reqs.

The really tricky part is roof lines

I have absolutely no idea how to negotiate a happy connection between the new and the old roof of the plan from early January.
The existing home have these huge overhangs (4 feet on the main house, 2 feet on the old additions).
Now, if I want to replace the siding throughout the house Iit would be less of a problem simply to chop off the overhangs - or reappropriate them somehow. Then I would only have to come up with a pretty way for the new siding to meet the flashing of the roof - and I would of course need some special overhang over the front door.
This is where I badly need an architect (ok, one of the many places I need one ;-). I need someone who can make the structures look stunning and beautiful, and like they belong to the same "family".
I fiddled around with SketchUp, but I am not really happy with the result. It is not really "inspired".

lava stone in the US

From Palo Alto weekly in 2003 For those who love the look of ceramic tile, but hate the grout, a San Jose company manufactures large lava-stone tiles, under the name of Vulcanite. Volcanic lava is quarried, cut into 16-inch by 25-inch to 36-inch by 25-inch tiles, then glazed at a high temperature.

"It tends to soften the tile and give more of a hand-made look. Once you make something into a massive size, it develops a coldness," noted Paul Burns, president of Fireclay Tile. Of course, a counter made up of small tiles has even more warmth, he acknowledged, but then you've got all those grout lines.

Lava stone can tolerate hot pots, similarly to a high-fired glazed tile, Burns said. "It should last forever. The lava is actually harder than granite or clay," he added, and because there are very few grout lines, there are few edges that are vulnerable to chipping.

Maintenance of lava stone depends on the glaze finish. Some require just soap and water; others need to be sealed every six months with a penetrating sealer.

According to Burns, lava stone offers an alternative to granite, for people who want more color flexibility and a softer look. "It's not better, it's just different," he said.

Lava stone comes in 20 colors, as well as 200 custom colors. Price is on the higher side, at about $120 per square foot installed, Burns said.

Kitchens

I get the impression that Europeans (mostly Scandinavians?) are obsessed these years about kitchen remodels. Being one of them, I certainly have my bug. With GoldenOak I am now ready for the 3rd new kitchen in less than 8 years.

Unnecessary to say, the kitchen style has to fit the house it is part of, so naturally my RWC kitchen in a simple Mediterranean was different from the modern Seattle kitchen. I could adopt the style from Seattle in this house - both being mid/late century modern homes.

But why walk the same steps twice when there are so many other beautiful styles to explore.

Here is a new/old design that I find appealing (but perhaps too boring?). I saw it in the Danish magazin BoBedre. The manufacturer is Koch Køkken, the model is Furesø in wenge and leather.
http://www.kochkoekken.dk/kk_enter.html / info@kochkoekken.dk / +45 4582 0099