I ran through the year on the current SketchUp model of the home, and found that the current 4' overhang works well between April 15 and August 27, i.e., 134 days a year.
I also found that an overhang that extends 6 ft further out would do additional shading, namely Feb 15 to Oct 26, i.e., 254 days a year. Such an overhang would unfortunately start fighting the view of the mountain ridge. And we still have more than 100 days of potential sun "problems".
BTW, I also tried the model at 3pm, looking at a person sitting down near the window (like my current work situ). With the current overhang, she would be bothered by sun in her eyes from Oct 16 to Feb 28. With a 10' overhang she would not have any direct glare problems.
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Monday, January 12, 2009
Summing up the most urgent questions
1. What is the cost of getting the ceiling up to 9' in kitchen study/fam?
Assuming the new entry and hallway have a 9’ ceiling, like the living room, it is an open question what to do about the ceiling in the kitchen and family room: keep it at its current current 8’, or raise it the level of the LR ceiling? How much would it cost extra to make the kitchen and (former) study be 9’ to ceiling? (Remember that the entire roof will need to be resurfaced anyway)
2. What is the cost of bringing the windows and doors up 10"?
I would like to know what is the true cost of bringing all south and north facing windows up to the ceiling, versus just running them to the bottom of the beams. The former would require some structural enforcement from above and the windowpanes are larger than what are normally available in the residential market.
3. What is the cost of an 86 sf niche versus a 165 sf addition to the NE corner?
I would like to understand if it makes sense to convert garage space into a study niche or whether the same money could be used to get higher quality space from a regular addition.
a. The price tag of converting 86 sf of garage to somewhat irregular conditioned space: Initially assumed to be low since we stay within the existing building envelope. However, all utilities have to be relocated away from the wall between living room and garage, ie. foundation work to allow the ducts to enter somewhere else, relocation of all plumbing and electricity to new laundry place, intricate framing (e,g, use existing overhang for the first 4’ of the niche and then drop to garage ceiling for the next 3’6”), new walls, custom build shelving, fancy sliding door. Degree HVAC estimates the extra work for them would amount to just over $3k.
b. The cost of a simple addition, 160-170 sf, sharing walls with living room and garage; same roof height as living room. Either slab or crawlspace.
Other pros and cons:
Con, study niche: serious lack of storage space in the garage.
Pro, study in addition: potentially a 3rd bedroom (better resale value).
Assuming the new entry and hallway have a 9’ ceiling, like the living room, it is an open question what to do about the ceiling in the kitchen and family room: keep it at its current current 8’, or raise it the level of the LR ceiling? How much would it cost extra to make the kitchen and (former) study be 9’ to ceiling? (Remember that the entire roof will need to be resurfaced anyway)
2. What is the cost of bringing the windows and doors up 10"?
I would like to know what is the true cost of bringing all south and north facing windows up to the ceiling, versus just running them to the bottom of the beams. The former would require some structural enforcement from above and the windowpanes are larger than what are normally available in the residential market.
3. What is the cost of an 86 sf niche versus a 165 sf addition to the NE corner?
I would like to understand if it makes sense to convert garage space into a study niche or whether the same money could be used to get higher quality space from a regular addition.
a. The price tag of converting 86 sf of garage to somewhat irregular conditioned space: Initially assumed to be low since we stay within the existing building envelope. However, all utilities have to be relocated away from the wall between living room and garage, ie. foundation work to allow the ducts to enter somewhere else, relocation of all plumbing and electricity to new laundry place, intricate framing (e,g, use existing overhang for the first 4’ of the niche and then drop to garage ceiling for the next 3’6”), new walls, custom build shelving, fancy sliding door. Degree HVAC estimates the extra work for them would amount to just over $3k.
b. The cost of a simple addition, 160-170 sf, sharing walls with living room and garage; same roof height as living room. Either slab or crawlspace.
Other pros and cons:
Con, study niche: serious lack of storage space in the garage.
Pro, study in addition: potentially a 3rd bedroom (better resale value).
Garage door quotes
I have been quite determined to replace the garage doors and I had been thinking about glass garage doors. I got two quotes"
- Overheaddoors, $5100 ?? brand; 1 year warranty
- RW garage door, $6800 - a wayne dalton product w lifetime warranty
Now, a very different approach would be to work with what I have. I got a quote for installing an automatic opener (3/4 HP) from
- Econo garage doors, $590
I would then have some 5K left to spice up the look of the door ;-)
- Overheaddoors, $5100 ?? brand; 1 year warranty
- RW garage door, $6800 - a wayne dalton product w lifetime warranty
Now, a very different approach would be to work with what I have. I got a quote for installing an automatic opener (3/4 HP) from
- Econo garage doors, $590
I would then have some 5K left to spice up the look of the door ;-)
Saturday, January 10, 2009
Exterior shades
A cool (ha-ha) idea would be to embed blinds/shutters in the deck and have a mechanism that allows them to roll up to the right height to block the sun - without obstructing the view above? I was wondering if it was just an idle "crazy" thought of yours or whether you had looked into such devices.
I talked with my architect yesterday and he was basically bemoaning that such devices didn't exist (he actually suggested it was a green business opportunity just waiting to be exploited). I googled around afterwards, and I found some rather ugly ones in the Carolinas http://www.alucraftshutters.com/products/pullup.htm
It looks like some Australian companies might have this kind of products: HelioScreen and Issey. I emailed them but they haven't responded back yet.
Thinking that it could not be right that only one company in the world is producing such things I went on and wasted a couple hours finding only some very industrial models - among others LawrenceDoors - which by the way costs in the order of $15K for an 18' long shutter plus - the LawrenceDoors tech warned me - likely a lot of cost to design a way to make it look good in a residential setting.
A problem of search phrases: One problem is of course to choose the right search phrases, Here are some useful ones:
exterior blind/exterior shade/shutter/grille
rolling/bottom-up/pull-up/inverse operation
Another problem is what I want to accomplish
I'll give it a try:
1. Reduce radiation of heat in->out
winter: from sunset till sunrise; raise to full height
summer: not really needed
2. Reduce radiation of heat out->in
winter: no real need
summer: from noon till sunset; raise gradually to full height
3. Reduce direct sun/glare
winter: from mid-morning till sunset; upper half
summer: no real need except, perhaps, for late PM; the overhang takes care of this
Hmmm.
There is a strong need for some device that will stop outward radiation at night. Low-E and gass filled dual pane will do some of the job, but they may not be sufficient. The traditional remedy is of course curtains, but (1) I don't really like most curtains because they clutter the view and (2) I am not the diligent kind of person who draws the curtains before heading out to work.
The exterior screens would be most useful if they allow a pretty good view out through the covering part. A device with thin, wide horizontal slats might be ideal.
I talked with my architect yesterday and he was basically bemoaning that such devices didn't exist (he actually suggested it was a green business opportunity just waiting to be exploited). I googled around afterwards, and I found some rather ugly ones in the Carolinas http://www.alucraftshutters.com/products/pullup.htm
It looks like some Australian companies might have this kind of products: HelioScreen and Issey. I emailed them but they haven't responded back yet.
Thinking that it could not be right that only one company in the world is producing such things I went on and wasted a couple hours finding only some very industrial models - among others LawrenceDoors - which by the way costs in the order of $15K for an 18' long shutter plus - the LawrenceDoors tech warned me - likely a lot of cost to design a way to make it look good in a residential setting.
A problem of search phrases: One problem is of course to choose the right search phrases, Here are some useful ones:
exterior blind/exterior shade/shutter/grille
rolling/bottom-up/pull-up/inverse operation
Another problem is what I want to accomplish
I'll give it a try:
1. Reduce radiation of heat in->out
winter: from sunset till sunrise; raise to full height
summer: not really needed
2. Reduce radiation of heat out->in
winter: no real need
summer: from noon till sunset; raise gradually to full height
3. Reduce direct sun/glare
winter: from mid-morning till sunset; upper half
summer: no real need except, perhaps, for late PM; the overhang takes care of this
Hmmm.
There is a strong need for some device that will stop outward radiation at night. Low-E and gass filled dual pane will do some of the job, but they may not be sufficient. The traditional remedy is of course curtains, but (1) I don't really like most curtains because they clutter the view and (2) I am not the diligent kind of person who draws the curtains before heading out to work.
The exterior screens would be most useful if they allow a pretty good view out through the covering part. A device with thin, wide horizontal slats might be ideal.
Another entry door and another garage + entry door
Here is a pretty amazing door - found it in ad material from Heliogreen (http://www.helioscreen.com.au/green/); they didn't say where the door came from.
The simpson door below looks so sad and boring next to this one.
And in the BAU 2009 (Architecture and Construction tradeshow in Munich) listings I stumbled over this design of flush garag doors. They are from Belu in Germany:
The simpson door below looks so sad and boring next to this one.
And in the BAU 2009 (Architecture and Construction tradeshow in Munich) listings I stumbled over this design of flush garag doors. They are from Belu in Germany:
Sunday, January 4, 2009
What about entry doors and side doors
I realize that I haven't paid lot of attention to door types.
Searching for aluminum doors mostly brought sliders, and a ton of Chinese wholesale cos.
Perhaps I should look for steel. Here is one, MilanDoors. Though it is way too flashy - kind of over-designed.
Also, I need to find a very neutral one for the GBR and MBA - to go side by side with picture windows.
A very nice door is this Simpson viewsaver TDL. And some of their impact resistant doors are also pretty in all their simplicity. A link to their site is here. Here is a link to a catalog .
BTW, I found a place in Los Angeles that has mahogany french doors - not that I am currently looking for some, but here is the link anyway. They seem to be quite affordable, but it may be lousy quality - who knows.
Windows from Milgard
As I created a list of windows and doors for estimating ballpark cost of complete replacement, I got really nervous: the price was growing steadily toward 50K, using the prices from Palo Alto Glass (Fleetwood pictures and Blomberg sliders) for extrapolation.
So I tried to put the measures into the online store, http://www.1stwindows.com/ using Milgard aluminum series as lead. And my window/door list (configuration 2, windows going "only" to bottom of beam).
I got a total of less than $15K for 24 windows and doors - but the 6 picture windows are only 60" wide (should be 67 3/4") ; the total would be just above $17K if I replaced the 60" wide picture windows with 67 3/4" wide sliders.
Still missing from the total are 4 swing in doors and 1-2 skylights. But we are far from 50K....
NB: the window/door list is not at all the final spec; for instance, no thoughts have yet gone into venting and such. This is just to get the general direction of pricing!
So I tried to put the measures into the online store, http://www.1stwindows.com/ using Milgard aluminum series as lead. And my window/door list (configuration 2, windows going "only" to bottom of beam).
I got a total of less than $15K for 24 windows and doors - but the 6 picture windows are only 60" wide (should be 67 3/4") ; the total would be just above $17K if I replaced the 60" wide picture windows with 67 3/4" wide sliders.
Still missing from the total are 4 swing in doors and 1-2 skylights. But we are far from 50K....
NB: the window/door list is not at all the final spec; for instance, no thoughts have yet gone into venting and such. This is just to get the general direction of pricing!
Saturday, January 3, 2009
People who live in glass houses should not throw stones ...
OK, what do I really think about the glass house idea? Of course, there are people who has actually tried living in one - wonder if Dr. Farnsworth is still around for an interview ;-) [oops, I read that she actually sued Mies van der Rohe].
Anyway, what do I think?
I want to make sure that it isn't a completely un-green idea - just imagine all the eco-terrorists descending on my fragile glass house!
So, the major concerns are ventilation, energy, and privacy. Let me address them in that order.
Ventilation: Ventilation and cross ventilation are important! I am uneasy about all the huge windows and doors, because they do not offer good ways of keeping a steady air-flow. Also, I don't want to sleep with open doors; and I have had enough (two!) burglaries here to believe that I can leave any windows open during the day time.
Energy is a huge issue. Using the sketch for the "glass house" I calculated that roughly 45% of the wall space is rough openings for glassy surfaces - subtract something for door frames etc, let's say we have 40% glass. BTW, all the details can be found in this document.
Privacy is partly taken care of by having the private rooms more closed to the street, and in general putting in "stoppers" (gate, planting, etc) between the street and the house. But I will still need to factor in some practical window covering system. It would be neat if the house could close itself off at night.
Anyway, what do I think?
I want to make sure that it isn't a completely un-green idea - just imagine all the eco-terrorists descending on my fragile glass house!
So, the major concerns are ventilation, energy, and privacy. Let me address them in that order.
Ventilation: Ventilation and cross ventilation are important! I am uneasy about all the huge windows and doors, because they do not offer good ways of keeping a steady air-flow. Also, I don't want to sleep with open doors; and I have had enough (two!) burglaries here to believe that I can leave any windows open during the day time.
Energy is a huge issue. Using the sketch for the "glass house" I calculated that roughly 45% of the wall space is rough openings for glassy surfaces - subtract something for door frames etc, let's say we have 40% glass. BTW, all the details can be found in this document.
Glass types: I'll have to choose the right glass. Right now I get a lot of sun and heat in during the day - and at night I loose a lot of heat through the huge window panes. So the goals are:
1. keep warmth indoor in cold times; prevent indoor warmth to spill out at night: low-E
2. keep warmth outside; prevent indoor cool to spill out during the day: ????
Honestly, I am not up-to-date on energy glass, so someone please help me.
Overhang and awnings: The 4' overhangs on the south side are useful in the middle of the day in the summer, but less effective in the afternoon, and throughout the day in fall and winter. I can get awnings and sun shades (for exterior use); the could be attached to extent the overhang.
Shades and blinds: I can get blinds and solar shades (for interior use).
However, if I choose to bring the windows all the way up to the ceiling - and spend addl. 25K on framing to allow these taller windows - it would be pretty silly to clutter up the top of the windows with blinds and such. The traditional Eichler solution is, as far as I know, vertical blinds - but I really find them ugly - at least these, often stained and yellowed plastic strips that most often are bend or turned out of alignment.
Privacy is partly taken care of by having the private rooms more closed to the street, and in general putting in "stoppers" (gate, planting, etc) between the street and the house. But I will still need to factor in some practical window covering system. It would be neat if the house could close itself off at night.
kitchen and study needs, and universal design
1. Kitchen: available cabinet space (shelf feet) is a bit on the low side - at least as I am reading the sketch; I get something like 50 shelf feet all included. The openness prevents us from using wall cabinets in the kitchen niche. Perhaps I should count in the 14” linear feet of cabinets on the west side of the family room? But that would be too far away from the dining table …
a. Perhaps it would make sense to cut back the legs of the “horseshoe”. Currently there is 4’ from the counter ends to the window. If we put a 12’ long line of low cabinets in – with French windows or sliding windows above to make it easy to reach through to the patio – we would be up at 60-65 shelf feet (adding 24 and subtracting 9-15 out of the first configuration). But such a credenza may turn out to compromise the glasshouse concept???
b. Another idea is to swap functions: move kitchen&family to the current living and dining room, and use the garage niche for pantry. It would provide lots of shelf feet. But what about the study? See below…
2. Garage niche: I really like the idea of the study niche – it is such a great idea. However, what may seem like a simple addition that make use of existing footprint, may actually be a demanding solution. The problem spot is all the infrastructure that currently sits in and along the wall between garage and living room. While it may be reasonably straight-forward to re-pipe the water and sewer, the heating system may be more costly. Relocating the heating system will likely require complete new ducting, new gas line run to wherever we put it, and some magic way of fitting 10” return air + 14”+10”+8” warm air (HVAC person’s guess about current ducts leading out of the furnace) into the crawlspace). If we don’t touch the HVAC part, there is only 7-8 feet width available for the niche. So what are the alternatives?
a. Perhaps the cost of making the study niche is not much higher than it would be to integrate a 12x15 feet addition on the NE side? It could be used as a study, and some of the same effects that the study garage niche would be possible: i.e., opening up to get the full view and closing off when things need be tidy. The question is if the big kitchen island will obstruct most of the view. On the other hand. It would be beautiful with my 58” tall bookcases on the north wall with clerestory windows above, showing off the oak grove.
b. The niche, in its reduced form, could be a pantry to a relocated kitchen (see Kitchen idea (a) above). Actually, we would not have to do anything in the garage right away, just make sure there is designed for a door later on.
Here is a sketch that reflects the idea mentioned above idea - click on the image to download it as a pdf file.
Universal design: One of the major advantages of my home over most other PV homes is that it is single floor. I promise myself to consider universal design throughout this remodel, e.g., think generous door openings, get rid of "hard-to-negotiate" corners. I would have liked less of a maze in the access to the MBR. Also remember to put backing (?) into walls to allow later attachment of grab bars. And make a no-threshold shower.
I wonder if the wall at the end of the hall should be pushed back to the beam - think disabled access! Or would this be the place for a laundry closet?
Closet space in MBR: I like the expansion of closet space and drawers - I hope there is an inexpensive way of making it look like a continuum
a. Perhaps it would make sense to cut back the legs of the “horseshoe”. Currently there is 4’ from the counter ends to the window. If we put a 12’ long line of low cabinets in – with French windows or sliding windows above to make it easy to reach through to the patio – we would be up at 60-65 shelf feet (adding 24 and subtracting 9-15 out of the first configuration). But such a credenza may turn out to compromise the glasshouse concept???
b. Another idea is to swap functions: move kitchen&family to the current living and dining room, and use the garage niche for pantry. It would provide lots of shelf feet. But what about the study? See below…
2. Garage niche: I really like the idea of the study niche – it is such a great idea. However, what may seem like a simple addition that make use of existing footprint, may actually be a demanding solution. The problem spot is all the infrastructure that currently sits in and along the wall between garage and living room. While it may be reasonably straight-forward to re-pipe the water and sewer, the heating system may be more costly. Relocating the heating system will likely require complete new ducting, new gas line run to wherever we put it, and some magic way of fitting 10” return air + 14”+10”+8” warm air (HVAC person’s guess about current ducts leading out of the furnace) into the crawlspace). If we don’t touch the HVAC part, there is only 7-8 feet width available for the niche. So what are the alternatives?
a. Perhaps the cost of making the study niche is not much higher than it would be to integrate a 12x15 feet addition on the NE side? It could be used as a study, and some of the same effects that the study garage niche would be possible: i.e., opening up to get the full view and closing off when things need be tidy. The question is if the big kitchen island will obstruct most of the view. On the other hand. It would be beautiful with my 58” tall bookcases on the north wall with clerestory windows above, showing off the oak grove.
b. The niche, in its reduced form, could be a pantry to a relocated kitchen (see Kitchen idea (a) above). Actually, we would not have to do anything in the garage right away, just make sure there is designed for a door later on.
Here is a sketch that reflects the idea mentioned above idea - click on the image to download it as a pdf file.
Universal design: One of the major advantages of my home over most other PV homes is that it is single floor. I promise myself to consider universal design throughout this remodel, e.g., think generous door openings, get rid of "hard-to-negotiate" corners. I would have liked less of a maze in the access to the MBR. Also remember to put backing (?) into walls to allow later attachment of grab bars. And make a no-threshold shower.
I wonder if the wall at the end of the hall should be pushed back to the beam - think disabled access! Or would this be the place for a laundry closet?
Closet space in MBR: I like the expansion of closet space and drawers - I hope there is an inexpensive way of making it look like a continuum
Kitchen cabinet needs
What is "enough" cabinet space? Using my Seattle kitchen, which had a small footprint but enough storage space, here are some numbers (see sheet: Kitchen shelf space)
73 "shelf feet" of kitchen storage
10.5 "shelf feet" of low drawers
50 "shelf feet" of helves or tall drawers: of which only 6' must be full depth
12.5 "shelf feet" for special items, like dishwasher, oven, sink and fridge
73 "shelf feet" of kitchen storage
10.5 "shelf feet" of low drawers
50 "shelf feet" of helves or tall drawers: of which only 6' must be full depth
12.5 "shelf feet" for special items, like dishwasher, oven, sink and fridge
Friday, January 2, 2009
Variations on siding
It is only so much I can play out the color varations in photoshop; the actual light/shade variation will likely change from color to color.
Here are three different schemes: (1) the current dark brown, (2) a grey-blueish color to match the hills over on Skyline, and (3) untreated pale cedar.
Here are three different schemes: (1) the current dark brown, (2) a grey-blueish color to match the hills over on Skyline, and (3) untreated pale cedar.
To paint or not to paint....
I wonder if there is a color theory for exterior paint and how the contrasts between shade and sun exposure works. Or whether we all have to learn it the hard way. I definitely learned that the way brown behaves in Seattle and in Portola Valley is very different.
My house is so dark that it sits there as a dark blob most of the day. Though, the brown color is reasonable light as soon as it is NOT in shade. Here is two variations snapped out of the same photo.
I wouldn't know how other colors would work. For instance, if I expend a fortune on new cedar siding - just to find out that it too is a dark indiscriminate blob!
My house is so dark that it sits there as a dark blob most of the day. Though, the brown color is reasonable light as soon as it is NOT in shade. Here is two variations snapped out of the same photo.
I wouldn't know how other colors would work. For instance, if I expend a fortune on new cedar siding - just to find out that it too is a dark indiscriminate blob!
Thursday, January 1, 2009
termites
Just discovered a termite infestation right in the middle of one of the 4x10 beams in the living room.
This lump, hanging from a pin hole less than 1/8" in diameter, is just fascinating - but of course also depressing.
This lump, hanging from a pin hole less than 1/8" in diameter, is just fascinating - but of course also depressing.
Siding
I really don't like the dark brown siding, and since a lot of the siding will be affected when new windows and doors are put in, this is the perfect time to rethink the "dressing".
So let me do some doc of what I have.... Here is a picture of the siding seen from below
It is shiplap with bevels only on one side. And I think its dressed thickness is close to 11/16", does that sound right?
Here is a diagram I found at www.redwoodlumberco.com/siding.htm. Looks familiar. BTW, they have this booklet with all kinds of redwood profiles- may come in handy one day)
After the remodel, we will have the following areas left for siding: 700 sf house siding + 340 sf garage + 130 sf garage door
Some options are:
- New cedar siding of everything- estimate: $17000-25000
- variation: make garage walls stucco or rather cement board- estimate: ???? BTW, the beauty of this idea is that we can salvage a lot of siding boards (though the siding boards are 94" and 106", respectively, on the GBR addition and on the "old" box. Will this be a show stopper?)
- Dismantle siding, and remount with boards inside out - estimate: ????
- Strip paint from current siding, clean, prep, and stain - estimate $7000 + labor to patch siding at new windows
- variation: make garage walls stucco or rather cement board- estimate: ????
- Repaint entire siding - estimate $3000 + labor to patch siding at new windows
| Wall: | if windows go to roof | If windows stops under beam |
| house north: | 108 sf (12 lf) | 114 sf |
| house east: | 8 sf | 8 sf |
| house south: | 108 sf (12lf) | 192 sf ) |
| house west : | 176 sf | 176 sf |
| house north 2: | 64 sf | 64 sf |
| house west 2: | 24 sf | 24 sf |
| house north 3: | 80 sf | 85 sf |
| house east 2: | 120 sf | 120 sf |
| house north 4: | 0 | 10 sf |
| house nw: | 0 | 0 |
| garage sw: | 32 sf | 32 sf |
| garage nw: | 32 sf | 32 sf |
| garage nw - garage door: | 130 sf | 130 sf |
| garage ne: | 160 sf | 160 sf |
| garage e: | 120 sf | 120 sf |
Garage doors revisited
This is what I have now: a 16' wide tilt-up, one-piece garage door, that doesn't provide a whole lot of headroom - but my prius and myself are fine underneath it ;-) 
So what is my problem? Just as I don't like trim indoor, I dislike the kind of "picture frame" that is created by the trim around the garage door. Another problem is the huge surface that the door makes.
I thought of putting in a glass garage door. They come in prices from $5100 all the way up to $15000, I guess with corresponding quality. A glass garage door would only work if the entryway and the guest BR window matched in patterns. Only the more expensive versions offer such corresponding doors. And I am not 100% sure I think a glass garage door is the best way to add style to my pseudo Eichler.
What other ideas can I think of? Well, Bob's Los Altos home had a differently "framed" garage face; a bit like Neil Jackson's... an emphasis on vertical geometry by making the wall between the top of the door and the roof a continuation of the garage door, and by de-emphasizing the sides of the door and make the lines continue from floor to roof.
Here is a sketch of the idea, as a before and after:
I wonder if we can just remove the "decorative" trim around the current garage door, fix the siding (and in the process close the wide gap on the right side). I could possibly add some 1x1 moulding strips to create a slightly more exciting pattern - though I wonder if it will be adding to much weight to an already heavy door?
I have not been able to find any local garage doors of this style, found a couple Australian ones though. Here is a sketch of a simple cedar plank door:
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