I had submitted my permit application, assuming I would NOT have ceiling lights. Instead I had advised a system of what I call beam lights, which is basically wall outlets placed on the walls up above the bottom of the exposed beam; they can each feed a track light or a hanging light fixture.
Since then, Mark has been suggested that we put in a lot of recessed lights.
So my question is whether it is possible - and feasible, legal, etc. - to install any kind of recessed lighting within the "sandwich'ed" ceiling/roof construction of (from bottom to top) 1.5" ceiling/roof decking (2x8 T&G), 5/8" plywood, 4-1/2" rigid foam, 1/2" denseboard, roofing membrane. I really don't know what kind of wiring can be run up there, and I know very little about LED lights.
I know that conventional recessed housings are way to tall. What I am wondering is if modern low voltage or LED lighting will allow much more shallow housing.
As far as I know, there is really nothing in the residential market that fit my requirement. But I did find some commercial product series, like PDQ lighting, Solavanti (it looks like Solavanti might be included in the offerings from PDQ), and Wiedamark.
Sunday, September 27, 2009
Friday, September 25, 2009
It has been soooooo long since i last posted here
... I will try to catch up
But here are the major events, in reverse chronology:
Sept. 17, 09: Besides some hiccups on the shipping (I had to change shipping company 2 days before the container was packed), the windows got properly inserted into a 20' container - they are now waiting in Aarhus Harbor for a Japanese ship to sail them to Oakland
Aug 28, 09: The 3-4 contenders for the general contract, was gradually reduced to 2 and then 1. Mark is currently contacted to do the first round (up til window installation).
Aug 13, 09: I got my building permit
Aug 4, 09: I finalized the window order and got Simon engaged to come and help with the installation
But here are the major events, in reverse chronology:
Sept. 17, 09: Besides some hiccups on the shipping (I had to change shipping company 2 days before the container was packed), the windows got properly inserted into a 20' container - they are now waiting in Aarhus Harbor for a Japanese ship to sail them to Oakland
Aug 28, 09: The 3-4 contenders for the general contract, was gradually reduced to 2 and then 1. Mark is currently contacted to do the first round (up til window installation).
Aug 13, 09: I got my building permit
Aug 4, 09: I finalized the window order and got Simon engaged to come and help with the installation
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
sinks
Oh my, I regret I didn't think a bit ahead and had a sink included with the window shipment.
I know that resale value concerns speak volume for a 2-sink configuration in the master bathroom, but I think it is a bit of a fad. Perhaps for my house it would be just as important to have two full master suites - "for the mature couple with separate sleeping quarters" as the ad might say ;-)
I bet a single, spectacular, very wide sink would distract from the lack of the obligatory 2 vessel sink configuration and end up looking much more generous and stylish.
I found some really nice and inexpensive ones in my Danish catalogs, as for instance:
My favorite (don't know the brand)
Intra Wing
Now to the usual problem: how to find something equivalent on the US product market?
Here are some candidates:
1. Duravit 049112, $1022:
2. Cantrio, $1553:
This one is 60" wide!
3. Neptune form Ira Woods, $675 - 50" wide:
3. good ol' Starck, $712:
, a 41.25" wide sink
I know that resale value concerns speak volume for a 2-sink configuration in the master bathroom, but I think it is a bit of a fad. Perhaps for my house it would be just as important to have two full master suites - "for the mature couple with separate sleeping quarters" as the ad might say ;-)
I bet a single, spectacular, very wide sink would distract from the lack of the obligatory 2 vessel sink configuration and end up looking much more generous and stylish.
I found some really nice and inexpensive ones in my Danish catalogs, as for instance:
My favorite (don't know the brand)

Intra Wing

Now to the usual problem: how to find something equivalent on the US product market?
Here are some candidates:
1. Duravit 049112, $1022:

2. Cantrio, $1553:
This one is 60" wide!3. Neptune form Ira Woods, $675 - 50" wide:
3. good ol' Starck, $712:
, a 41.25" wide sink
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Unidrains translates to US English: Infinity drains

OK, it turns out I don't need to import the unidrain ;-) There is a product here called Infinity drain, First I learned that they would typically call these linear drains.
The cost of the traditional linear drain, 47" long and 2 7/8" wide, with PVC channel, will cost $704; the kit is called AG 6548.
The modern one with tile frame is TIF 6540 and it would cost $732. Here is the description: "Developed to make the drain disappear the TIF series incorporates tile or solid surface material within the grate frame. Made of 316 stainless steel frame, the TIF 65 uses a PVC channel. Grate lengths at 40". Tile insert 3/4" depth. PVC Channel length, 108" maximum."
Add to the price the tile or solid that needs be put in. I don't see any of the Corian inserts that unidrain carries.
Saturday, July 25, 2009
How to - grade beam
I pulled out a lot of hair trying to decipher Mark (SE)'s specs for the grade beam. And I finally ended up with this sketchup drawing:
![]() |
| From gradebeam |
As is obvious from the specs, there was no way that all the listed constraints could ever be met, see the picasa picts
Thursday, June 25, 2009
the building permit process has started!!
I submitted the plans to the town yesterday, only 10 days after my original deadline ;-)
They are available here as
2. the structural drawings (doesn't include the calc; they are not in digital format)
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Task list end-of-may
All tasks include necessary demolition and prompt hauling away of debris, reinstallation of weather proofing, electrical runs etc. And cleaning up afterwards.
1. Window replacement and frame adjustments
1a. Measure all opening on drawings for window/door order. Max tolerance accepted is 1/2" on each side.
1b. Adjust framing to allow all windows and doors to sit sharply in the bays made by existing or new subfloor-to-beam 4x4 posts (possibly made of 2 2x4s). Max tolerance accepted is 1/2" on each side. Windows/doors to start exactly at the bottom of the beam; add posts where current sliders are place under beams.
1c. Install strong walls, moment frames or similar as needed on the building perimeter (expected five 2' strong walls).
1d. Repair siding as needed
1e Remove all remaining wood paneling (in LR and entryway)
1f Add R13 insulation to any wall that is opened up.
1g Repair affected walls, sheetrock and mud.
2. Add a 16'x16' addition to the existing house, make roof line continue; NB, does not include installation of windows/doors and roof surface installation
2a. excavate, form work and pouring of foundation perimeter wall, make separate entry for crawl space as well as access to "old" crawlspace
2b. Frame subfloor, walls, roof; critical: walls in accordance w/ the window / door plan and order.
2c [Ignore. In contract with other!]: install windows and doors - owner to provide all exterior doors and windows;
2d. NB: don't include floor installation here !!! covered in item 9
2e. Provide power outlets and spacing as required by code; assume 1 surface mounted ceiling fixture w/ power supply in conduit inside roof insulation
3. Clean-up fireplace profile:
3a. remove mantel, hearth and "decorative" wings to let the front of the fireplace be exactly
the same width as the chimney;
3b. Apply plaster and wire mesh to even out the wall surface of entire chimney/fireplace column (think polished concrete for end result).
3c Clean and secure internal firefox
3d Add frameless glass doors in fireplace.
3e Install travertine hearth set in oak floor, exactly the width of the chimney column
4. Revise framing support at entry and hallway.
4a Replace longest beam entirely
4a.1 or enforce longest beam with steel bracing
4a.2 or add post and "repair" northern part of compromised beam
4b Install two 2' strong walls between kitchen and LR
4c Clear opening to bottom of beam at 45 degree entry wall
4d "repair" compromised beams to regain strength (structural engineer will advise) and to restore aesthetics
5. Resurface or rebuild roof (approx. 3400 sf). In the process replace beams and T&G in decking that has termite damage or dryrot. If rebuilding: apply plywood to stiffen entire roof membrane; add 4.5" solid insulation (R30), fireproofing layer and top membrane. New fascia boards made by two staggered 1x6s (or the like)
6. Replace existing furnace w/ 94+ furnace; rechannel one of the return air ducts away from LR to entryway; recalculate load and rebuild ducts in crawlspace
7. Facade toward N/NW [A6.0]. Revise the appearance of the front facade, including
7a Building 18' long wings with concealed gates, parapets reaching 1'7" over roof surface along garage and bedroom toward driveway,
7b cut and "wrap" the overhangs,
7c apply cedar slatting to walls and parapets, e.g. 3x1 slats set 3/4" apart. NB: accuracy is of the essense.
7d Rebuild the garage door framing and door itself. Add slats to this or new garage door. Mount the garage door to become flush with the slatting on the sides.
7X. Replace all existing siding with new clear Wester Cedar 1x8 T&G siding, select grade, set horizontally (how much over the cost of 1d and slat cladding of 7a)
8 Internal doors - common: trim-less installation, stain grade jambs [A7.0]. NB some doors are included in task 12.
8a Install a pocket door for separation between kitchen and LR
8b Build and install 4 slat panels as separation between kitchen and hall - mount two tracks for the panels
8c Install two 48" wide frameless, etched glass bifold sliding door between between LR and new study
8d Install three 36" wide solid stain grade doors, maple, to garage, coat closet, north BR. NB, trimless installation
9. Floors
9a Install new oak wood floors to match the rest of the house in addition, entry and kitchen area, approx. 706 sf
9b Refinish / repair all existing floors, approx.1032 sf
10. Driveway [A6.7, C1, C2]
10.1 Demolish existing concrete driveway, haul away.
10.2 Excavate for 2-3 parking spaces according to marks by arborist (number depends on root system)
10.3 Install steps and landing at entry
10.4 install 6" wide concrete edging along 1987-addition, 2 feet from wall.
10.5 Install decomposed granite on proper supporting and graded base;
10.6 Install up to 3' tall retaining walls to support parking spaces
10.7 Finish properly at intersection with town property (the street)
11. [Ignore for now; specs underway from landscape architect] Landings and decks (not including front steps):
12: [Ignore. In contract with other!] MBA, powderroom and small hallway [A2.2]
12.1 Demolish walls and closet; resurface beams; remove toilets, tub and sinks. Haul away
12.2 Restore subfloor at current return air duct; rebuild duct space for return air nest to existing duct to other BR
12.3 Build new partition walls and clean up edges at removed walls ... 23 lin ft of 8ft tall (6+6+6+5);
12.4 Install shower section in new MBA;
12.5 Tile work, floor and walls in shower - floor 120sf, walls 100 sf
12.6 Install four 36" wide solid stain grade doors, maple, to north BA, powder room, MBA and MBR. NB, trimless installation [A7.0]
12.7 redo electrical [A8.1]
Owner to provide all plumbing fixtures (for 3 sinks, 2 toilets, shower). Installation of backing/support, verify location w/ owner
13: Reorganize and upgrade other BA [A2.2]
13.1 Demolish short wall; toilets, tub and sinks. Haul away
13.2 Build tub/shower section,
13.3 tile work, floor and walls in tub/shower section, floor: 42sf; walls: 60sf
13.4 redo electrical [A8.1]
Owner to provide all plumbing fixtures (for 1 sinks, 1 toilets, shower/tub combo). Installation of backing/support, verify location w/ owner
14: Insulate crawlspace
15. [Not likely:] fabricate and install alu-supported trellis system of 4 feet wide redwood louvers along the south side (100 ft) [A6.6]
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