Bob's idea of a study niche may come with some significant costs, like foundation (or can we just build on top of the garage slab?) and the cost of cleaning up the wall toward the LR, i.e., most prominently moving the furnace and water heater away from the wall. There seem to be two very different ways of approaching this move. Either we will just move everything and run vents and pipes into the crawlspace from the outside. The problem is just that there isn't a whole lot of space available. Another option might be to make the floor in the study niche the same level as the LR, allowing us to run vents and pipes there.
I thought I would gather some data from the HVAC experts. I have asked Degree HVAC and Atlas to come and look at the project [the Atlas guy turned out to be hard to communicate with, so instead I contacted Rebholtz Mechanical]. Here is my question to them:
1) What would be the cost of replacing my old furnace, all installation included?
- with a 80+
- with a 90+
- with a packaged central air conditioner
2) What is the state of the duct work? and what would it cost to repair or replace?
3) What would be the additional cost (relative to item 1) of relocating all plumbing away from the south wall? Ideas for destination: outside on east wall.
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
All the infrastructure on the garage-LR wall
Looking at the wall between the garage and the living room, what would it take to clear it and relocate all the utilities?
The slab in the garage is 10"-11" below the finished floor height in the house. The crawlspace is likely 18"-24" tall.
DUCTS
- Warm air duct currently goes into the crawlspace from the bottom of the furnace through the slab and elbow'ing into the crawlspace; Mike is guessing that at least 3 ducts go in there: a 14", a 10" and an 8"
- A 10" return air duct from west end of house currently enter the garage through the slab, most likely coming out from the crawlspace.
- Return air from LR goes directly into the furnace; Mike was recommending a larger register, 14"x 24" (or even 30")
GAS:
- Gas source is run along the ceiling of the garage. On the south wall at the ceiling it angles down and briefly goes behind the drywall, to emerge some 3' above the floor. There it T's off, one side going to the WH and furnace, the other side going a couple of feet east before L'ing into the wall and crawlspace to go to the kitchen.
WATER:
- the incoming water pipe surfaces outside at the south east corner of the garage and enters through the wall some 18-24" above floor; L's into the south wall. Runs inside the wall to the water heater and faucets. Somewhere it T's off a branch that goes through the crawlspace the kitchen and baths. Hot water enters the wall and continues down into the crawlspace - to go to kitchen and baths.
DRAINAGE:
- one laundry standpipe (3' above floor), one drain connections (1' above floor), and one clean out (a floor level) decorates the wall.
New installations:
- we need to relocate the return air duct away from the living room.
- perhaps time to rethink the water entry - take it away from the corner. BTW, it looks like a vacuum thingie on the line is leaking.
- drain needs to be redirected to the new laundry room. Perhaps the easiest thing would be to abandon the old drain (it is the one that most frequently gets stoppage), and instead make a new line directly into the sewer line on the east side of the house
The slab in the garage is 10"-11" below the finished floor height in the house. The crawlspace is likely 18"-24" tall.
DUCTS
- Warm air duct currently goes into the crawlspace from the bottom of the furnace through the slab and elbow'ing into the crawlspace; Mike is guessing that at least 3 ducts go in there: a 14", a 10" and an 8"
- A 10" return air duct from west end of house currently enter the garage through the slab, most likely coming out from the crawlspace.
- Return air from LR goes directly into the furnace; Mike was recommending a larger register, 14"x 24" (or even 30")
GAS:
- Gas source is run along the ceiling of the garage. On the south wall at the ceiling it angles down and briefly goes behind the drywall, to emerge some 3' above the floor. There it T's off, one side going to the WH and furnace, the other side going a couple of feet east before L'ing into the wall and crawlspace to go to the kitchen.
WATER:
- the incoming water pipe surfaces outside at the south east corner of the garage and enters through the wall some 18-24" above floor; L's into the south wall. Runs inside the wall to the water heater and faucets. Somewhere it T's off a branch that goes through the crawlspace the kitchen and baths. Hot water enters the wall and continues down into the crawlspace - to go to kitchen and baths.
DRAINAGE:
- one laundry standpipe (3' above floor), one drain connections (1' above floor), and one clean out (a floor level) decorates the wall.
New installations:
- we need to relocate the return air duct away from the living room.
- perhaps time to rethink the water entry - take it away from the corner. BTW, it looks like a vacuum thingie on the line is leaking.
- drain needs to be redirected to the new laundry room. Perhaps the easiest thing would be to abandon the old drain (it is the one that most frequently gets stoppage), and instead make a new line directly into the sewer line on the east side of the house
Sunday, December 21, 2008
dabbling in Sketchup
I dabbled a bit in SketchUp over the weekend, click here to get to the model.
I tried to visualize the study, the kitchen and the exterior entry area. Here is some immediate thoughts:
Study: First I got the idea on letting at least the first 4 feet be the full LR ceiling height: that can be done by using the 4' overhang. And I though we could make advantage of the 22" dip down to garage height by putting in an awning window in the "dip" - or perhaps something really fancy like a slanted glass roof. I am not completely sold on the idea; at least not the version with a step down. I am afraid it will look and feel like a closet. How about a small, strategically placed window towards east in the study niche?
Kitchen: There is a real danger that it will come to look like a ticketing booth or the dentist's reception - at least if it has opening from countertop and up. I wonder if it wouldn't be better to define its sides towards the entry and mostly be open on the south side
Entry: Finally, the space left outside at the entry is really small - too small to even hold a bench. So it is a bit of a challenge to figure out why it is there. Any ideas? It is limited what can grow on a shady north side.
Also, making the landing and the steps NOT fill out the trapeze makes it all look small and cramped. I think the landing should go all the way out to the line from BR corner to garage corner.
And third, the partial overhang looks terrible. If at all affordable, we should raise the ceiling throughout the midsection - at least to the level of the LR ceiling
I also tried to play around with some textures for the exterior:
Exterior: I am afraid the cedar + concrete + rust color is so-o-o-o-o 90s. But I count on my architect to come up with something fresh ;-) Though I like the idea of making the garage stand in a different material - but link in with the house by the garage door.
I have been thinking of somehow using the grey-blue colors of the skyline ridge as a color on the house - the trim? fascia boards? garage door?
Roof: I know it is hard to assess from the sketchup models, but it look to me like a fascia board height of 9" (the same as the height of the beam) would look better than the current 6".
I tried to visualize the study, the kitchen and the exterior entry area. Here is some immediate thoughts:
Study: First I got the idea on letting at least the first 4 feet be the full LR ceiling height: that can be done by using the 4' overhang. And I though we could make advantage of the 22" dip down to garage height by putting in an awning window in the "dip" - or perhaps something really fancy like a slanted glass roof. I am not completely sold on the idea; at least not the version with a step down. I am afraid it will look and feel like a closet. How about a small, strategically placed window towards east in the study niche?
Kitchen: There is a real danger that it will come to look like a ticketing booth or the dentist's reception - at least if it has opening from countertop and up. I wonder if it wouldn't be better to define its sides towards the entry and mostly be open on the south side
Entry: Finally, the space left outside at the entry is really small - too small to even hold a bench. So it is a bit of a challenge to figure out why it is there. Any ideas? It is limited what can grow on a shady north side.
Also, making the landing and the steps NOT fill out the trapeze makes it all look small and cramped. I think the landing should go all the way out to the line from BR corner to garage corner.
And third, the partial overhang looks terrible. If at all affordable, we should raise the ceiling throughout the midsection - at least to the level of the LR ceiling
I also tried to play around with some textures for the exterior:
Exterior: I am afraid the cedar + concrete + rust color is so-o-o-o-o 90s. But I count on my architect to come up with something fresh ;-) Though I like the idea of making the garage stand in a different material - but link in with the house by the garage door.
I have been thinking of somehow using the grey-blue colors of the skyline ridge as a color on the house - the trim? fascia boards? garage door?
Roof: I know it is hard to assess from the sketchup models, but it look to me like a fascia board height of 9" (the same as the height of the beam) would look better than the current 6".
Thursday, December 18, 2008
ok, here is floor plan number N + 1 ;-)
Here is Bob's first sketch. It has good clarity. The carrying ideas are preservation of the 180 degree undisturbed view E-S-W from almost any place in the home and a Glass House concept with see through / transparency (privacy will have to be secured by a combination of an electrical gate and landscape elements on the driveway side). Funny to revisit the glass house - which was the very first vision I had about the house when I first decided to buy it.
Bob’s sketch captures the following changes:
- Make current LR, kitchen, study and hallway into a single open room, with the kitchen sitting between the new family room and the LR.
- Open the wall between garage and living room to allow for a study niche with build-in shelving (total conversion to conditioned space = 86 sf)
- Push the north facing wall out 4’ to make a new hallway; take a corner from the guest bedroom (total addition = 74 sf)
- Reorganize 2 south-facing narrow bathrooms into 1 larger master BA and a powder room.
- Replace all windows and sliders with picture windows and sliders that sit between beams; bring windows/doors all the way up to the ceiling along north and south walls.
- Possibly redo the guest bathroom to become better proportioned
- Resurface fireplace
And here are some of my first questions to his sketch:
"1. What exactly is gained by pushing out the current entry wall some 18-24"? The current landing does not go all the way to the garage wall; there is a 20" (or so) gap. So this solution would require addition to the current slab. BTW, does the landing qualify as a (part of a) slab for interior use? Or would the landing have to be demolished and re-poured?
2. Can you say a few words about the sense of floating-in-air and the marking of wall cabinets in the sketch? I am assuming that the dashed lines mean wall cabinets, right? If so: I wonder if you are thinking of an old-fashioned reach-through opening below wall cabinets. I kind-of doubt it. would provide the desired openness. And if there is no wall cabinets, we are left with very little cabinet space. And the floating-in-air sense does demand a bit more ceiling height than the current 8'
3. Although I love the idea of the location of this study I am concerned about two things: (1) it would have to have steps down to provide a decent ceiling height (what is code requiring?) and (2) the price tag of integrating sub-optimal garage space: would the cost of relocating utilities (electrical subpanel, WH and Furnace), raising the ceiling and insulating the floor perhaps be better spent somewhere else?
4. Thinking ahead to the future: I am not entirely sure how much you envision would be used for future hall: would it be all 5 feet (closet + current hallway)?
5. The configuration of the bedroom section is OK, but it would have been great had it been less maze-like."
Bob’s sketch captures the following changes:
- Make current LR, kitchen, study and hallway into a single open room, with the kitchen sitting between the new family room and the LR.
- Open the wall between garage and living room to allow for a study niche with build-in shelving (total conversion to conditioned space = 86 sf)
- Push the north facing wall out 4’ to make a new hallway; take a corner from the guest bedroom (total addition = 74 sf)
- Reorganize 2 south-facing narrow bathrooms into 1 larger master BA and a powder room.
- Replace all windows and sliders with picture windows and sliders that sit between beams; bring windows/doors all the way up to the ceiling along north and south walls.
- Possibly redo the guest bathroom to become better proportioned
- Resurface fireplace
And here are some of my first questions to his sketch:
"1. What exactly is gained by pushing out the current entry wall some 18-24"? The current landing does not go all the way to the garage wall; there is a 20" (or so) gap. So this solution would require addition to the current slab. BTW, does the landing qualify as a (part of a) slab for interior use? Or would the landing have to be demolished and re-poured?
2. Can you say a few words about the sense of floating-in-air and the marking of wall cabinets in the sketch? I am assuming that the dashed lines mean wall cabinets, right? If so: I wonder if you are thinking of an old-fashioned reach-through opening below wall cabinets. I kind-of doubt it. would provide the desired openness. And if there is no wall cabinets, we are left with very little cabinet space. And the floating-in-air sense does demand a bit more ceiling height than the current 8'
3. Although I love the idea of the location of this study I am concerned about two things: (1) it would have to have steps down to provide a decent ceiling height (what is code requiring?) and (2) the price tag of integrating sub-optimal garage space: would the cost of relocating utilities (electrical subpanel, WH and Furnace), raising the ceiling and insulating the floor perhaps be better spent somewhere else?
4. Thinking ahead to the future: I am not entirely sure how much you envision would be used for future hall: would it be all 5 feet (closet + current hallway)?
5. The configuration of the bedroom section is OK, but it would have been great had it been less maze-like."
Have I finally found an architect of my mind?
Recently I signed a contract for initial design etc. with Bob Stoecker. I mentioned before how I really resonated with his ideas - and with the fact that he actually delivered ideas in each and every conversation ;-) This afternoon I got a first sketch from him - one that I really like (see separate post).
So where am I now - after hundreds of floorplans and multiple architects ;-) I have been less than overwhelmed with the suggestions I got from previous architects; and I start recognizing a pattern here. If I do not experience some architectural mastery I feel obliged to take over and dabble myself. But my ideas suffered the same problem as the architects: none of the sketches were truly convincing, just "good enough". In general I have been unwilling to do anything if I wouldn't get something exceptionally beautiful.
Bob's sketch is reviving the glass house concept and 180 degree undisturbed view. There is a "logical" beauty in the idea - not just a utilitarian "squeezing more out of the space", which is unfortunately what many of my own plans were guilty of. Finally here is a real architect (strong design language) who also seem to know about and want to work with the local setting.
There are a number of questions and it is not clear the design can be done within my budget. We still need to get it sanity checked with contractors; and there is a bit of more work left on specifying design details before that can be done.
But -- I hope... I really think we are on the right track now.
So where am I now - after hundreds of floorplans and multiple architects ;-) I have been less than overwhelmed with the suggestions I got from previous architects; and I start recognizing a pattern here. If I do not experience some architectural mastery I feel obliged to take over and dabble myself. But my ideas suffered the same problem as the architects: none of the sketches were truly convincing, just "good enough". In general I have been unwilling to do anything if I wouldn't get something exceptionally beautiful.
Bob's sketch is reviving the glass house concept and 180 degree undisturbed view. There is a "logical" beauty in the idea - not just a utilitarian "squeezing more out of the space", which is unfortunately what many of my own plans were guilty of. Finally here is a real architect (strong design language) who also seem to know about and want to work with the local setting.
There are a number of questions and it is not clear the design can be done within my budget. We still need to get it sanity checked with contractors; and there is a bit of more work left on specifying design details before that can be done.
But -- I hope... I really think we are on the right track now.
Sunday, December 14, 2008
Floorplan no. xxxxxxxxx !
Remember back in 2007 when I discussed various remodeling plans with Ron, the structural engineer? One of my ideas then was to remove the middle section of the house and rebuild that. Somehow I never got around to sketching this idea out.
That is, until now. Chris, one of the contractors I have recently consulted, brought the idea up -- kudos for his creativity! Now the nagging question is: can it really be done within my budget?
So here is one possible sketch.
That is, until now. Chris, one of the contractors I have recently consulted, brought the idea up -- kudos for his creativity! Now the nagging question is: can it really be done within my budget?
So here is one possible sketch.
Heating - repair or replace
I took for granted that I would replace the monster of a furnace in the garage, but when I realized I couldn't afford my preferred attractive heating method: hydronic heating from floor and radiators, I started wondering. I read somewhere that people tend to get caught up in nominal specs, like 80% efficiency versus 93%, and also that people often feel their new system is just badly designed.
In my situation, I am using a lot of therms because my windows are single pane and there is no insulation in the walls and ceiling. But I would reduce my heating energy consumption immensely if I addressed these auxiliary issues, rather than the heating source.
So I set out to get some more information about my installed system. It is a Tuck Aire furnace, name tagged Western, from 1959.
- model: CFB 27-120
- BTU/H: 120000
- Bonnet capacity BTU/H: 96000
- serial: 1059
The manufacturer who is still around guesses its efficiency to be between 60 & 70%.
I asked one of the online forums for advise and the suggestion was: "your steady state efficiency is 80%. Your AFUE is more like 50% [AFUE is Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency, I guess the assumption is that the pilots run all year round]. So, a new induced draft would probably save you 30% plus. A 90% plus, would save that much more. BUT, get a load calc done, so the right size is put in. Doubtful you need that big a furnace."
It is a tough choice. I want to spend my money wisely, but it doesn't seem like my expected future heating consumption really justifies the replacement.
December, 19. 2008: I had the furnace services. It is a tad less noisy but the repair man claimed he couldn't make the noise disappear: the bearings are worn and there are apparently no spare parts to be had. So it will have to be replaced sometime during this remodel
In my situation, I am using a lot of therms because my windows are single pane and there is no insulation in the walls and ceiling. But I would reduce my heating energy consumption immensely if I addressed these auxiliary issues, rather than the heating source.
So I set out to get some more information about my installed system. It is a Tuck Aire furnace, name tagged Western, from 1959.
- model: CFB 27-120
- BTU/H: 120000
- Bonnet capacity BTU/H: 96000
- serial: 1059
The manufacturer who is still around guesses its efficiency to be between 60 & 70%.
I asked one of the online forums for advise and the suggestion was: "your steady state efficiency is 80%. Your AFUE is more like 50% [AFUE is Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency, I guess the assumption is that the pilots run all year round]. So, a new induced draft would probably save you 30% plus. A 90% plus, would save that much more. BUT, get a load calc done, so the right size is put in. Doubtful you need that big a furnace."
It is a tough choice. I want to spend my money wisely, but it doesn't seem like my expected future heating consumption really justifies the replacement.
December, 19. 2008: I had the furnace services. It is a tad less noisy but the repair man claimed he couldn't make the noise disappear: the bearings are worn and there are apparently no spare parts to be had. So it will have to be replaced sometime during this remodel
Getting the team together
One of the first orders of the day is to select a contractor to involve as soon as possible - to make sure the what Bob is designing is actually buildable!
I received a lot of good recommendations from the PVforum mailing list, and I have been meeting with most of them, trying to figure out where each of them stands on pricing, work quality, creativity and their general "bed side manners" ;-)
I asked each of them to price and also comment on a "straw man" proposal in the form of the rough floor plan with integrated entry area, plus the list of maintenance issues.
The idea is, having selected a contractor to work with during the design phase, that he or she will invest time in doing detailed estimating. When construction drawings are ready for bidding, this contractor is supposedly at an advantage. However, if we end up not using this person's services, the design contributions will be reasonably compensated be compensated using an hourly rate TBD.
I received a lot of good recommendations from the PVforum mailing list, and I have been meeting with most of them, trying to figure out where each of them stands on pricing, work quality, creativity and their general "bed side manners" ;-)
I asked each of them to price and also comment on a "straw man" proposal in the form of the rough floor plan with integrated entry area, plus the list of maintenance issues.
The idea is, having selected a contractor to work with during the design phase, that he or she will invest time in doing detailed estimating. When construction drawings are ready for bidding, this contractor is supposedly at an advantage. However, if we end up not using this person's services, the design contributions will be reasonably compensated be compensated using an hourly rate TBD.
Monday, December 1, 2008
Maintenance issues - 1st installment
Utilitarian concerns that needs to be addressed - mostly because I bought a house with lots of deferred maintenance issues. They provide some constraints - and strains -- on the budget - close to 120K!!!:
1. I need to resurface the roof - according to the roof repair person, it might not last another wet season. Some issues that may affect the decision about materials etc. Abril quoted me a 3000 sf foam roof last year [20K, Abril]
a. There is ponding on the garage roof. Apparently the 4x12's that carry the span of the roof are insufficient. Reroofing may make the pond go away, but will it last? Or would i need to add footing and posts midway, or beef up one or two beams with steel I-beams (and footings at each side of garage)?
b. Current roof is hardly insulated. One option is the foam roof which is "self-insulating". Another idea is tapered solid foam under a single ply factory assembled membrane (kind of expensive, 30-40K). A third option is to build up with 2x4s and blow in insulation. The build-up would also allow installation of recessed lights in ceiling - and even plumbing for fire sprinklers. [guess +$10K]
2. I may need to replace the furnace. It is from the 50s and is not as efficient as today's furnaces - and it rattles like a freight train! I really would prefer another heating method - I hate the forced air blowing - but I am afraid it is not really feasible to change to hydronic heating. So perhaps I should just accept it and simply replace the furnace. If I just replace, it should be straight forward - and it actually does not have to wait on the rest of the remodel. Right? [$2.5K, Nielsen/Aire]
3. I need to do something serious about heat loss through the current single pane windows, and the sliding doors are in no good shape either (attempts to adjust them seem to not last). And a final troubles spot: it is hard to vent the bedrooms without also letting in burglars and whatever.
A simple work around could be:
- windows: add strom windows, possibly plexiglas to be really cheap ;-)
- doors: have them serviced (Though that would only make sense if I am going to keep them...
- venting: there are little attachment locks that can be mounted on the door track to lock it in place.
However, I am more tempted to replace them, or rather redesign the window/door configuration:
a. All the windows/doors in the older part are positioned in weird ways - going counter to the structure of the house. I would like to relocate and reshape the windows and doors to better fit the Eichler'ish style of the house.
b. Ideally all windows should all be replaced with larger ones that go all the way to the ceiling - same thing with the doors.
c. An important concern in design new window configurations is to make sure I get good natural ventilation.
[~ 36K, Palo Alto Glass + guestimate 10K for prep. framing]
d. The idea about raising the window panes all the way to the roof/ceiling decking will require some structural enforcement of the top of the windows - which may be done as a header on top of the roof decking (not 100% sure I understand why this would work). Such a header would work well with the idea of building up the roof to allow for blown-in insulation. [guestimate addl. 5-10K for reinforcement framing]
4. I need to do something about the fireplace. I definitely need to spice up the design, Eichler'ize the sides where window panes meet chimney, get rid of the ugly mantel and relief - possibly make the surface completely smooth, like polished concrete. It would be great to get an insert - I have no idea what that might cost; most likely I would have to replace liner and more (at least that was what I needed in Seattle), [incl complete insulation and new sheetrock on LR walls, $7000 Nielsen / Aire]
5. The south-west corner of the house (the SW corner of the blue BR) “dips”. Do we need to have it jacked up?
6. The garage door is in bad shape, no lock, no handle, no automatic opener, and so on. I am hoping it will be replaced as part of a major make over of the entire entry area. One issue is that it is a one-piece (non-sectional) overhead door, which leaves the opening very short. The distance from the floor to the bottom of the beam is 81". With the garage door opened, there may be only 72" under the door. If I replace it with a sectional overhead door, I'll need to lower the exterior opening some 6", i.e. siding repair and need trim [Glass garage door, $5500 Overhead doors]
7. I don't care much for the painted wood siding - the brown color is way too dark. I really wish I had an untreated wood surface - I love the look of untreated cedar... I guess that there will not be much left of the old siding if I actually replace windows and doors. [ guess: 30K, Semso]
1. I need to resurface the roof - according to the roof repair person, it might not last another wet season. Some issues that may affect the decision about materials etc. Abril quoted me a 3000 sf foam roof last year [20K, Abril]
a. There is ponding on the garage roof. Apparently the 4x12's that carry the span of the roof are insufficient. Reroofing may make the pond go away, but will it last? Or would i need to add footing and posts midway, or beef up one or two beams with steel I-beams (and footings at each side of garage)?
b. Current roof is hardly insulated. One option is the foam roof which is "self-insulating". Another idea is tapered solid foam under a single ply factory assembled membrane (kind of expensive, 30-40K). A third option is to build up with 2x4s and blow in insulation. The build-up would also allow installation of recessed lights in ceiling - and even plumbing for fire sprinklers. [guess +$10K]
2. I may need to replace the furnace. It is from the 50s and is not as efficient as today's furnaces - and it rattles like a freight train! I really would prefer another heating method - I hate the forced air blowing - but I am afraid it is not really feasible to change to hydronic heating. So perhaps I should just accept it and simply replace the furnace. If I just replace, it should be straight forward - and it actually does not have to wait on the rest of the remodel. Right? [$2.5K, Nielsen/Aire]
3. I need to do something serious about heat loss through the current single pane windows, and the sliding doors are in no good shape either (attempts to adjust them seem to not last). And a final troubles spot: it is hard to vent the bedrooms without also letting in burglars and whatever.
A simple work around could be:
- windows: add strom windows, possibly plexiglas to be really cheap ;-)
- doors: have them serviced (Though that would only make sense if I am going to keep them...
- venting: there are little attachment locks that can be mounted on the door track to lock it in place.
However, I am more tempted to replace them, or rather redesign the window/door configuration:
a. All the windows/doors in the older part are positioned in weird ways - going counter to the structure of the house. I would like to relocate and reshape the windows and doors to better fit the Eichler'ish style of the house.
b. Ideally all windows should all be replaced with larger ones that go all the way to the ceiling - same thing with the doors.
c. An important concern in design new window configurations is to make sure I get good natural ventilation.
[~ 36K, Palo Alto Glass + guestimate 10K for prep. framing]
d. The idea about raising the window panes all the way to the roof/ceiling decking will require some structural enforcement of the top of the windows - which may be done as a header on top of the roof decking (not 100% sure I understand why this would work). Such a header would work well with the idea of building up the roof to allow for blown-in insulation. [guestimate addl. 5-10K for reinforcement framing]
4. I need to do something about the fireplace. I definitely need to spice up the design, Eichler'ize the sides where window panes meet chimney, get rid of the ugly mantel and relief - possibly make the surface completely smooth, like polished concrete. It would be great to get an insert - I have no idea what that might cost; most likely I would have to replace liner and more (at least that was what I needed in Seattle), [incl complete insulation and new sheetrock on LR walls, $7000 Nielsen / Aire]
5. The south-west corner of the house (the SW corner of the blue BR) “dips”. Do we need to have it jacked up?
6. The garage door is in bad shape, no lock, no handle, no automatic opener, and so on. I am hoping it will be replaced as part of a major make over of the entire entry area. One issue is that it is a one-piece (non-sectional) overhead door, which leaves the opening very short. The distance from the floor to the bottom of the beam is 81". With the garage door opened, there may be only 72" under the door. If I replace it with a sectional overhead door, I'll need to lower the exterior opening some 6", i.e. siding repair and need trim [Glass garage door, $5500 Overhead doors]
7. I don't care much for the painted wood siding - the brown color is way too dark. I really wish I had an untreated wood surface - I love the look of untreated cedar... I guess that there will not be much left of the old siding if I actually replace windows and doors. [ guess: 30K, Semso]
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
Elevations
I realize I didn't provide any information about the elevations of the existing home. But better late than never.
And yet another one...
OK, I cannot resist - there is a couple of problems with the previous floor plan. I am still hooked on the idea of sacrificing the 3rd bedroom. But otherwise...
- The prev. plan will make the entire living room completely exposed to people who enter the entry room
- The new kitchen IS small, but it doesn't make a lot of practical difference to have the full 15.5' width (in the prev. plan) versus the 12.5' width.
- There is something nice about the potential undisturbed view from the east end of the living room to the bedroom section (and later, if I also redo the bedrooms) possibly all the way through to the west end wall.
- The prev. plan will make the entire living room completely exposed to people who enter the entry room
- The new kitchen IS small, but it doesn't make a lot of practical difference to have the full 15.5' width (in the prev. plan) versus the 12.5' width.
- There is something nice about the potential undisturbed view from the east end of the living room to the bedroom section (and later, if I also redo the bedrooms) possibly all the way through to the west end wall.
Friday, October 31, 2008
Yet another floorplan...
I have been fiddling around with floor plans (AGAIN!) and my most recent idea is to sacrifice the 3rd bedroom and create a larger kitchen/family room, please see the attached drawing. The primary virtue of this plan is that it preserves the entire bedroom section as-is - at least for now ;-)
Some problems:
- I had first thought of making room for a powder room in the entry area (to allow later combining the two south-facing bathrooms into a master bath), but it seems important to try to keep the Study/atrium open and airy
- I thought of adding the powder room in the protrusion into the garage (currently a coat closet), but it would definitely have to be enlarged and may turn out to be an expensive idea.
- I tried a lot of different positions for the wall between the Study/atrium and the entry. I ended up with one that is a bit wasteful, but it "obeys" the main beam structure.
Don't look into the details of the kitchen setup; it has not been thought through.
Some problems:
- I had first thought of making room for a powder room in the entry area (to allow later combining the two south-facing bathrooms into a master bath), but it seems important to try to keep the Study/atrium open and airy
- I thought of adding the powder room in the protrusion into the garage (currently a coat closet), but it would definitely have to be enlarged and may turn out to be an expensive idea.
- I tried a lot of different positions for the wall between the Study/atrium and the entry. I ended up with one that is a bit wasteful, but it "obeys" the main beam structure.
Don't look into the details of the kitchen setup; it has not been thought through.
Monday, October 27, 2008
Back to square one on the landscape issue
The first rain came and went and we are getting into perfect planting season. Except I am no closer to getting a planting plan, much less a full design for the landscape. The lead to Ron did not work out; I gather he might have been too busy on other projects. It took very very long to first get to meet with him and then to get a proposal; and just the fact it took more than 2 weeks to produce the contract proposal seems severely at odds with my explicit request for short turn-around time.
Another thing to factor in is the pool: I just got word from the Alpine club that I am now on the top of the waiting list; but I am really leery about signing up for a $20000 one-time membership fee of which only 20% will be returned on resignation. In addition to the one-time fee there are monthly fees totaling $250 (incl. a food minimum).
In contrast, I would need to pay in the order of $50000-70000 for a pool at home.
Another thing to factor in is the pool: I just got word from the Alpine club that I am now on the top of the waiting list; but I am really leery about signing up for a $20000 one-time membership fee of which only 20% will be returned on resignation. In addition to the one-time fee there are monthly fees totaling $250 (incl. a food minimum).
In contrast, I would need to pay in the order of $50000-70000 for a pool at home.
Thursday, October 16, 2008
Windows - Eichler'izing the living room
These are numbers from Palo Alto Glass
1. Replace the four (4) large fixed windows across the back with 1" overall thickness tempered insulated low-e insulated glass in openings prepared by your contractor. $7,668.00
2. Replace the two fixed windows around the fireplace with same. $1,668.00
Replace them with doors instead: Fleetwood brand Series 3400 swinging aluminum doors, same spec's. $8,254.00
3. Replace the two sliding doors at the front and back with Fleetwood brand Series 1000 (narrow stiles and rails) sliding glass doors. Clear anodized aluminum finish, low-e insulated glass, locks, handles, screens. $7,643.00
My own extrapolation of replacements for the "old" box, i.e.,
4. 3 sliding doors (shorter than those in LR) ~ $11,000
5. 3 fixed/casement windows in kitchen, bathroom, bedroom towards driveway ~ $4000
i.e., a total of $32K
These numbers are shocking! The only problem is that Milgard may notmake picture windows any wider than 60" - and they don't do tall sliders.
See also a much newer post (1/3/09) on Milgard windows.
1. Replace the four (4) large fixed windows across the back with 1" overall thickness tempered insulated low-e insulated glass in openings prepared by your contractor. $7,668.00
2. Replace the two fixed windows around the fireplace with same. $1,668.00
Replace them with doors instead: Fleetwood brand Series 3400 swinging aluminum doors, same spec's. $8,254.00
3. Replace the two sliding doors at the front and back with Fleetwood brand Series 1000 (narrow stiles and rails) sliding glass doors. Clear anodized aluminum finish, low-e insulated glass, locks, handles, screens. $7,643.00
My own extrapolation of replacements for the "old" box, i.e.,
4. 3 sliding doors (shorter than those in LR) ~ $11,000
5. 3 fixed/casement windows in kitchen, bathroom, bedroom towards driveway ~ $4000
i.e., a total of $32K
These numbers are shocking! The only problem is that Milgard may notmake picture windows any wider than 60" - and they don't do tall sliders.
See also a much newer post (1/3/09) on Milgard windows.
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
back to previous designs
As far as floor plans go, I seem to be back where I was in October (see plan here). Except I would make the entryway a lot wider, I cut the corner from the kitchen, and preserve just a tad more of the existing floorplan. Here is a sketch of what I am currently thinking.
The protrusion from the kitchen is supposed to be a deck and it would double the size of the kitchen. There is also a wrap-around deck to match the overhangs and make the floor seem to continue.
The protrusion from the kitchen is supposed to be a deck and it would double the size of the kitchen. There is also a wrap-around deck to match the overhangs and make the floor seem to continue.
Saturday, August 2, 2008
Regroup!
I had a chat with a local architect, Bob Stoecker. Very interesting and inspirational. He said several things that immediately resonate with me:
First, a lot can be done to make the existing small'ish home seem bigger and more airy. One thing he suggested was to have all the windows go all the way up to the decking and all the way down to the floor + build a wrap around deck to give the illusion of the floor continuing.
Second, the true value of living here is the mild Mediterranean climate - begging for an unobstructed indoor-outdoor flow. So he recommend putting at least 100K into designing and building the exterior room. He pointed me to Ron Lutsko as a great architect/designer of modern landscapes.
First, a lot can be done to make the existing small'ish home seem bigger and more airy. One thing he suggested was to have all the windows go all the way up to the decking and all the way down to the floor + build a wrap around deck to give the illusion of the floor continuing.
Second, the true value of living here is the mild Mediterranean climate - begging for an unobstructed indoor-outdoor flow. So he recommend putting at least 100K into designing and building the exterior room. He pointed me to Ron Lutsko as a great architect/designer of modern landscapes.
Is 1700 sf too small for a Portola Valley lot?
This is one of the questions that has been nagging me all along: my fear of having a way too expensive sqft price in case I would need to sell. So one question I have is to what extent square footage price is a significant factor when homes are evaluated.
I contacted a couple of local real estate agents to get their opinions on different scenarios and the likelihood of getting my money back from different investments. The options I presented were:
A. SELL: sell it
B. REMODEL: $450K, 1700 sf of partly updated home. Raise the roof 4 ft on the old section, make new master BR suite, rebuild all roofs w/ fire sprinklers, etc.
C. NEW AND REPAIR: $450K, 750 sf new home and 1700 sf of repaired home: build addl. 750 sf structure and repair only as needed on existing structure
Some important qualities of what I have are: a large lot, an amazing view, a very level lot, no stairs required to get from driveway into house; no levels in house, sewer system (makes lot fully usable (no drain field).
Negatives are: traffic noise from Alpine (can also be a positive by being close to everything),
The consensus was that a small house is not necessarily a detriment, and possibly as wealthy baby-boomers retire and want to scale down, a house of this size may actually be attractive. One agent suggested the 3/3 configuration of BR/BA was important to keep. However, most buyers would consider it a tear down to give room to their mansion. A couple of recent sales suggests that just the value of the lot is in the 2.3M range.
Option C did not get a lot of positive feedback: even if a larger sqft would be gained it was unclear that the unremodeled part could get sufficient curb appeal and integration with the new structure.
Option B was seen as a viable course to take; in today's market a remodeled house like this might be able to sell for 2.3M - but no guarantees of course.
All this made me add a fourth option to the confusion:
D. UPGRADE + EXTERIOR: $300K, 1700 sf of maintained home. Stick to current building envelope; take care of deferred maintenance and energy improvements: new windows, roof resurfacing, new furnace, clean up floor plan in BR section, redo entry and get new kitchen.
I contacted a couple of local real estate agents to get their opinions on different scenarios and the likelihood of getting my money back from different investments. The options I presented were:
A. SELL: sell it
B. REMODEL: $450K, 1700 sf of partly updated home. Raise the roof 4 ft on the old section, make new master BR suite, rebuild all roofs w/ fire sprinklers, etc.
C. NEW AND REPAIR: $450K, 750 sf new home and 1700 sf of repaired home: build addl. 750 sf structure and repair only as needed on existing structure
Some important qualities of what I have are: a large lot, an amazing view, a very level lot, no stairs required to get from driveway into house; no levels in house, sewer system (makes lot fully usable (no drain field).
Negatives are: traffic noise from Alpine (can also be a positive by being close to everything),
The consensus was that a small house is not necessarily a detriment, and possibly as wealthy baby-boomers retire and want to scale down, a house of this size may actually be attractive. One agent suggested the 3/3 configuration of BR/BA was important to keep. However, most buyers would consider it a tear down to give room to their mansion. A couple of recent sales suggests that just the value of the lot is in the 2.3M range.
Option C did not get a lot of positive feedback: even if a larger sqft would be gained it was unclear that the unremodeled part could get sufficient curb appeal and integration with the new structure.
Option B was seen as a viable course to take; in today's market a remodeled house like this might be able to sell for 2.3M - but no guarantees of course.
All this made me add a fourth option to the confusion:
D. UPGRADE + EXTERIOR: $300K, 1700 sf of maintained home. Stick to current building envelope; take care of deferred maintenance and energy improvements: new windows, roof resurfacing, new furnace, clean up floor plan in BR section, redo entry and get new kitchen.
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Building a companion building instead
Now, how about just keeping the existing home as is - at least for now. And build another building 20 feet from the existing, 8 feet lower. In between the two buildings would be a pool and a patio.
This is actually very similar to the ideas I had when I first moved here, inspired by the MK Breeze house. The patio with the pool would be the breezeway. The existing home would be on the north side of the breezeway, the new on the south side.
I tried modeling it in Sketchup - sorry, it is very unpolished. Here is a snapshot of the houses seen from SSW.
This is actually very similar to the ideas I had when I first moved here, inspired by the MK Breeze house. The patio with the pool would be the breezeway. The existing home would be on the north side of the breezeway, the new on the south side.
I tried modeling it in Sketchup - sorry, it is very unpolished. Here is a snapshot of the houses seen from SSW.
Thursday, July 3, 2008
Elevation sketches to go with the floorplan from June
I finally got the elevation sketches. They don't bring any surprises. Actually, they are very much like the model I made in SketchUp
Elevation sketch: North-facing side, as seen from the street
Elevation sketch: South-facing side, towards the meadow
Some questions:
- Judging from the shadows, it looks like the roof has been extended from the add-on BR across the entry area. I don't think that is much better than the current heavy overhang (only a foot higher up, and still making it into a very dark space.
- Actually, the pattern of shadows on the front could never appear; we are facing north and even in early morning the sun is coming from over the garage. The entry area is deep in shade for the rest of day
- It looks like one of the huge overhead doors (the crosses over 4 of the 8 windows in the "old box" on the south side) that Tom put into the Chicken Point cabin. It is an amazing structural element there? Here I wonder if it will look skimpy in my more modest setting - and I am also wondering if it is really practical: would I end up keeping it closed most all the time to keep out flying critters and the wind?
Elevation sketch: North-facing side, as seen from the street
Elevation sketch: South-facing side, towards the meadow
Some questions:
- Judging from the shadows, it looks like the roof has been extended from the add-on BR across the entry area. I don't think that is much better than the current heavy overhang (only a foot higher up, and still making it into a very dark space.
- Actually, the pattern of shadows on the front could never appear; we are facing north and even in early morning the sun is coming from over the garage. The entry area is deep in shade for the rest of day
- It looks like one of the huge overhead doors (the crosses over 4 of the 8 windows in the "old box" on the south side) that Tom put into the Chicken Point cabin. It is an amazing structural element there? Here I wonder if it will look skimpy in my more modest setting - and I am also wondering if it is really practical: would I end up keeping it closed most all the time to keep out flying critters and the wind?
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
Questions for structural engineer
1. What would roughly be the requirements to foundation, posts and beams if I want to raise the ceiling of the "old box" 48", i.e. going to a finished-floor-to-ceiling height of 145", from currently 96 3/4" - the box is 16' wide and 48' log (outer measures), and the "top" would have several clerestory windows
Please note that I am assuming that the raised ceiling would be done by removing all roofing material (tar&gravel over 3-ply) "peeling" of existing decking and beams. I would be interested in reusing the beams and decking.
1a. However, does it seem possible and feasible to replace the current wood posts, beams, etc. with steel as I consider raising the roof and adding the new "top"? All the windows have to be replaces anyway. Would the steel be much heavier and therefore require even more extensive reinforcement of foundation?
2. The "old box" consists of 8 segments of each 72" width (defined by the beams); the middle 6 sections of the south facing side of the box would have large glass windows / doors. Would it be sufficient to put shear walls in each end, i.e. in each of the two outer sections?
3. Would requirements to foundation, shear walls, and posts be significantly different if -- instead of the above idea -- we replaced the current flat roof with one that is slanted upwards towards south, say, keeping the current height where the "old box" meets the add-on, and then raised to, say, 48" at the south wall. It would give the roof of the "old box" a slope of 4/16 = 25%
4. Would the garage roof be strong enough to hold an "extensive" green roof. According to some literature I found on the web, an extensive green roof weighs 12 lbs/sf (I believe that is to complete roofing surface weight)
5. Would the current roof of the "newer box" be able to carry solar panels, or would it require some structural reinforcement of beams, posts or foundation? It looks like solar panels would add a weight of 2.5 - 3 lbs/sf - in addition to the regular roofing surface which currently is tar&gravel.
6. Roughly, what kind of foundation would be needed if I wanted to add a room by bumping out 1/2 of the old box, say, adding a 144" x 288" room to the south side of the "old box"
7. Would I be able to add a new entry way as filling in the space between the garage and the add-on, simply by extending the slab on grade? Or would I need something more fancy as foundation?
8. What are the requirements to a foundation for integrating the 4' overhangs of the "newer box"? Would like crawlspace under the floor
Please note that I am assuming that the raised ceiling would be done by removing all roofing material (tar&gravel over 3-ply) "peeling" of existing decking and beams. I would be interested in reusing the beams and decking.
1a. However, does it seem possible and feasible to replace the current wood posts, beams, etc. with steel as I consider raising the roof and adding the new "top"? All the windows have to be replaces anyway. Would the steel be much heavier and therefore require even more extensive reinforcement of foundation?
2. The "old box" consists of 8 segments of each 72" width (defined by the beams); the middle 6 sections of the south facing side of the box would have large glass windows / doors. Would it be sufficient to put shear walls in each end, i.e. in each of the two outer sections?
3. Would requirements to foundation, shear walls, and posts be significantly different if -- instead of the above idea -- we replaced the current flat roof with one that is slanted upwards towards south, say, keeping the current height where the "old box" meets the add-on, and then raised to, say, 48" at the south wall. It would give the roof of the "old box" a slope of 4/16 = 25%
4. Would the garage roof be strong enough to hold an "extensive" green roof. According to some literature I found on the web, an extensive green roof weighs 12 lbs/sf (I believe that is to complete roofing surface weight)
5. Would the current roof of the "newer box" be able to carry solar panels, or would it require some structural reinforcement of beams, posts or foundation? It looks like solar panels would add a weight of 2.5 - 3 lbs/sf - in addition to the regular roofing surface which currently is tar&gravel.
6. Roughly, what kind of foundation would be needed if I wanted to add a room by bumping out 1/2 of the old box, say, adding a 144" x 288" room to the south side of the "old box"
7. Would I be able to add a new entry way as filling in the space between the garage and the add-on, simply by extending the slab on grade? Or would I need something more fancy as foundation?
8. What are the requirements to a foundation for integrating the 4' overhangs of the "newer box"? Would like crawlspace under the floor
questions for the town
Some of my big questions are:
1. would a complete re-roofing trigger the fire sprinkler requirement
The existing roof is a flat tar&gravel, with minimal insulation and directly on top of the 2" thick ceiling slats, i.e., there is no attic space. The roof would have to be completely rebuilt (not just resurfaced) if sprinklers have to be put in. Answer: No, not likely - if the entire remodels over a year are kept under $170K I should be fine.
2. If I rebuild the roof as a consequence of sprinkler ordinance but do not otherwise change the loads etc., would I also be required to bring foundation up to current standards? Answer: No, I would not have to beef up foundation in any part that is not the direct target of the remodel. I.e., people are not further penalized for doing work to comply with code.
3. If I go ahead and re-roof, would a re-roofing that also raises the roof over a 15.5' x 48' floor area (i.e., one of the 4 boxes that my house consists of ) trigger a requirement for ASCC review? I am attaching a model view of the existing appearance of the house from the street, as well as the appearance with a 4 foot extension of part of the roof. Answer: yes, a review is necessary. But it should be a no-brainer as they see this change as a very reasonable one. Though, brain or no-brain ;-) it will still take time. The next open slot in the ASCC schedule is in September!
4. Would installation of solar panels trigger a requirement to underground the electrical supply line from the pole at the street to the house? The house already has a 200A service panel that - according to some solar installers - is sufficient for whatever they need. No, "you are only required to do so when upgrading, relocating, or replacing a panel, or if you are building a new residence. Simply installing solar pv's does not trigger the undergrounding requirement"
Facts:
- foundation: 2235 sf (1680sf house; 545 sf garage) foundation w/ crawl space; garage is slab on grade
- framing: exposed structural beams (23' long, 4x10s, 6" oc), vertical support: 4x4 posts, 4' wide overhangs
- roof = ceiling: 2x8 center-match decking on top of structural beams; no attic
- roof surface (wide overhangs!): 3000sf (approx. )
- lot: 1.2 acre (approx. )
There are a number of given:
a. the roof is worn out; the entire roof need be resurfaced within the next 12 months.
b. I would like to get solar panels
c. I would like to replace single pane window glazing w/ low-e dbl. pane glass
1. would a complete re-roofing trigger the fire sprinkler requirement
The existing roof is a flat tar&gravel, with minimal insulation and directly on top of the 2" thick ceiling slats, i.e., there is no attic space. The roof would have to be completely rebuilt (not just resurfaced) if sprinklers have to be put in. Answer: No, not likely - if the entire remodels over a year are kept under $170K I should be fine.
2. If I rebuild the roof as a consequence of sprinkler ordinance but do not otherwise change the loads etc., would I also be required to bring foundation up to current standards? Answer: No, I would not have to beef up foundation in any part that is not the direct target of the remodel. I.e., people are not further penalized for doing work to comply with code.
3. If I go ahead and re-roof, would a re-roofing that also raises the roof over a 15.5' x 48' floor area (i.e., one of the 4 boxes that my house consists of ) trigger a requirement for ASCC review? I am attaching a model view of the existing appearance of the house from the street, as well as the appearance with a 4 foot extension of part of the roof. Answer: yes, a review is necessary. But it should be a no-brainer as they see this change as a very reasonable one. Though, brain or no-brain ;-) it will still take time. The next open slot in the ASCC schedule is in September!
4. Would installation of solar panels trigger a requirement to underground the electrical supply line from the pole at the street to the house? The house already has a 200A service panel that - according to some solar installers - is sufficient for whatever they need. No, "you are only required to do so when upgrading, relocating, or replacing a panel, or if you are building a new residence. Simply installing solar pv's does not trigger the undergrounding requirement"
Facts:
- foundation: 2235 sf (1680sf house; 545 sf garage) foundation w/ crawl space; garage is slab on grade
- framing: exposed structural beams (23' long, 4x10s, 6" oc), vertical support: 4x4 posts, 4' wide overhangs
- roof = ceiling: 2x8 center-match decking on top of structural beams; no attic
- roof surface (wide overhangs!): 3000sf (approx. )
- lot: 1.2 acre (approx. )
There are a number of given:
a. the roof is worn out; the entire roof need be resurfaced within the next 12 months.
b. I would like to get solar panels
c. I would like to replace single pane window glazing w/ low-e dbl. pane glass
basic structure
The structure throughout the house is exposed structural beams with the center-match decking on top, slats
Some of the slats in the decking are damaged by dry rot, and who knows what we will find when the tar and gravel is removed.
There are slight differences in dimensions:
Some of the slats in the decking are damaged by dry rot, and who knows what we will find when the tar and gravel is removed.
There are slight differences in dimensions:
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
A simple box on top
First a model of existing home (though I faked an improved cladding of horizontal cedar boards):
I have been waiting for elevation drawings from Tom. But perhaps it is really simple if I preserve the Eichler'ish overhang and just "jack up" the oldest box.
So here we go... exactly the same but with a 4' tall box on top of the Western "box":
I have been waiting for elevation drawings from Tom. But perhaps it is really simple if I preserve the Eichler'ish overhang and just "jack up" the oldest box.
So here we go... exactly the same but with a 4' tall box on top of the Western "box":
Sunday, June 22, 2008
looking at options
I am still trying to understand my various options.
1. since the roof has to be completely resurfaces and since any permit application is likely to trigger the requirement of fire sprinklers throughout the home (also any unchanged parts), it is really like putting on a brand new roof, possibly reusing the exposed structural beams (23' long, 4x10s, 6" oc) with the 2x8 center-match decking on top. And since truly flat roofs are serious headaches, this may be a good occasion to get a bit of slope throughout - get a shed roof instead (also more Eichler'ish)
2. Would it be possible to simply build a kind of "hat" to mount on top of the existing walls, separating the hat from the walls below by putting in a kind of sill plate at height 8' above finished floor. The idea would be to define the new building envelope as the same footprint and lower walls, but with plenty of head room and clear-story windows in the "hat" - and allow for subsequent and gradual renovation of what is below. I could imagine the "hat" being 4-6' on the tallest south-facing side and possibly just the minimal height to comfortably allow open-able clear-story windows, say 2' at least. See also sketch, the "hat" is shown on the proposed elevation drawing bottom right
3. I am tempted to add an addition on the south side, to get more depth into the living area and also break the long south facade. Any addition will likely require a pier/pile foundation - the soil report suggests going 15' down. Perhaps any change I make to the ceiling height might trigger a requirement to beef up the foundation, I really don't know.
4. Tom, the architect I have consulted, thought it would be way too expensive to integrate the 4' overhang into the living space because of the required foundation etc. I am still thinking that "stealing 4' of the garage would be a great way of getting hallway and access to the Eastern rooms without having to take away from the already narrow rooms. So I am not entirely convinced he is right. But I am also not sure how to make the right calculation to do a pro-et-con.
5. Since I am going to mess with almost all of the existing plumbing, it strikes me that it might be a good opportunity to clean up and upgrade the runs. The current plumbing is a mushroomed system, evolved between 1958-1980.
1. since the roof has to be completely resurfaces and since any permit application is likely to trigger the requirement of fire sprinklers throughout the home (also any unchanged parts), it is really like putting on a brand new roof, possibly reusing the exposed structural beams (23' long, 4x10s, 6" oc) with the 2x8 center-match decking on top. And since truly flat roofs are serious headaches, this may be a good occasion to get a bit of slope throughout - get a shed roof instead (also more Eichler'ish)
2. Would it be possible to simply build a kind of "hat" to mount on top of the existing walls, separating the hat from the walls below by putting in a kind of sill plate at height 8' above finished floor. The idea would be to define the new building envelope as the same footprint and lower walls, but with plenty of head room and clear-story windows in the "hat" - and allow for subsequent and gradual renovation of what is below. I could imagine the "hat" being 4-6' on the tallest south-facing side and possibly just the minimal height to comfortably allow open-able clear-story windows, say 2' at least. See also sketch, the "hat" is shown on the proposed elevation drawing bottom right
3. I am tempted to add an addition on the south side, to get more depth into the living area and also break the long south facade. Any addition will likely require a pier/pile foundation - the soil report suggests going 15' down. Perhaps any change I make to the ceiling height might trigger a requirement to beef up the foundation, I really don't know.
4. Tom, the architect I have consulted, thought it would be way too expensive to integrate the 4' overhang into the living space because of the required foundation etc. I am still thinking that "stealing 4' of the garage would be a great way of getting hallway and access to the Eastern rooms without having to take away from the already narrow rooms. So I am not entirely convinced he is right. But I am also not sure how to make the right calculation to do a pro-et-con.
5. Since I am going to mess with almost all of the existing plumbing, it strikes me that it might be a good opportunity to clean up and upgrade the runs. The current plumbing is a mushroomed system, evolved between 1958-1980.
Documentation of the sewer line (installed in summer 07)
I realize I never posted the drawings from the sewer line design. Here they are: Utility plan and Detail plan.
Friday, June 20, 2008
Sprinkers needed if remodel exceeds $186,493
Elizabeth (assisting architect) advised me on the calculation formula (here with correct numbers )
Existing dwelling: 2102sf x $107.18 = $225,292 x 75% = $168,970
Thus, if the remodeled cost is over $168,970, regardless if area is added, fire sprinklers will be required. Fire sprinklers are another added cost.
Ooops, I stand corrected. The real measures differ significantly from the county data. So Elizabeth was right:
Her calcs show:
1. Existing dwelling: 2320sf x $107.18 = $248,657 x 75% = $186,493
2. If the remodeled cost is over $186,493, regardless if area is added, fire sprinklers will be required. Fire sprinklers are another added cost.
Existing dwelling: 2102sf x $107.18 = $225,292 x 75% = $168,970
Thus, if the remodeled cost is over $168,970, regardless if area is added, fire sprinklers will be required. Fire sprinklers are another added cost.
Ooops, I stand corrected. The real measures differ significantly from the county data. So Elizabeth was right:
Her calcs show:
1. Existing dwelling: 2320sf x $107.18 = $248,657 x 75% = $186,493
2. If the remodeled cost is over $186,493, regardless if area is added, fire sprinklers will be required. Fire sprinklers are another added cost.
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
Tom Kundig's take on floorplan etc.
I had some questions:
- are you thinking of preserving "flat roof with the large overhang" style? and if Yes, how would you think of lightening up the front entry garden? It is facing north, and with heavy overhangs not much can grow there.
- does the solid line in the MBR denote a solid wall towards south?
- what is the story about the big footprint of the big door in the LR? Are you thinking "overhead" door like the Chicken Point cabin?
I am a bit concerned about the following:
- the entryway looks a bit cramped and awkward, I think.
- a fair amount of floorspace is lost to corridors, for instance the passage way from the MBR to the bath.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
Bye-bye redwoods
It was a tough decision, but in the end I decided to go ahead with the removal of 10 redwoods and 3 eucalyptuses. It is all 6 redwoods in the upper grove, and 4 infested/deformed redwoods from the lower grove. There is still 6 redwoods left.
The resulting view is stunning. Here are pictures of the new view as well as the view of the house from below.
View from kitchen, approx. middle of the length of the south side (click on the picture to see a larger version)
View from the SW corner of the house (click on the picture to see a larger version)
Viewing the house from below, almost at end of meadow (click on the picture to see a larger version)
The resulting view is stunning. Here are pictures of the new view as well as the view of the house from below.
View from kitchen, approx. middle of the length of the south side (click on the picture to see a larger version)
View from the SW corner of the house (click on the picture to see a larger version)
Viewing the house from below, almost at end of meadow (click on the picture to see a larger version)
Sunday, May 18, 2008
Patio - and driveway?
During these last days of heat wave (over 100F for 3 days) made my thoughts gravitate towards nice outdoor spaces.
Sunset Jan 2008 had an article about a driveway/patio project. I like the look of concrete pavers when they are generously framed by grass/moss. Of course the question is how much work is needed to keep the green stuff look good (I recall my struggles with thyme between the flagstones on Alameda).
Here is a couple of picts:
Sunset Jan 2008 had an article about a driveway/patio project. I like the look of concrete pavers when they are generously framed by grass/moss. Of course the question is how much work is needed to keep the green stuff look good (I recall my struggles with thyme between the flagstones on Alameda).
Here is a couple of picts:
Sunday, May 11, 2008
Summary of landscape issues
A: need for screening:
--------------------------------
1. visual screening along the road, Golden Oak. Some of the length of the property line is currently screened by a rickety fence that suddenly stops. The section downhill from the driveway (some 130 feet) is part of a natural oak knoll: beautiful old oaks growing of rocky soil (very hard to dig!) The oaks alone cannot provide sufficient screening between the road and the house
2. visual screening towards down hill neighbor, i.e. more dense planting than now along existing fence, max. 10 feet when fully grown
3. visual and possibly auditory screening further down the same property line. Alpine and the Los Trancos intersection are visible between the current planting; i.e. layers of planting of up to 30-40 feet tall in mature height (or perhaps an idea for somewhat lower planing further up the hill towards my house
4. visual screening towards a cottage/play area further down along the same property line
5. visual screening at the south end of the property, mature height less than 10 feet.
6. occasional filling out of large gaps in perimeter planting towards uphill neighbor.
B: Fencing for a small orchard like area on the east side of the house
--------------------------------
The fencing should be non-conspicuous but serve to keep deer away from this place (approx. size of "orchard": 30' x 50' - wonder if it is too small)
C: Planting along the driveway - from street to house
--------------------------------
Currently a lot of scraggly, gangly looking shrubs and small trees - instead I want
1. banks of native plants on both sides of driveway - all the way to the street (low on water, but OK with, say, weekly sprinkle)
2. provide screening (without looking like a hedge) to define the edges of the semi public area (the entry and the driveway) and without requiring a lot of water
D: Sitting areas for on south side of house (opposite driveway)
--------------------------------
There are different weathers and winds to attend to, possibly requiring several different patio areas:
1. Hot summer: shading by pergola and grape vines
2. Windy days: typically in the spring I have a chilling wind blowing from SW
3. Chilly evening for outdoor BBQ
4. Entertaining
E: Transition between house and meadow
------------------------------------
Currently I have a semi-rotten retaining wall 20 feet from the house on the south side; it has been backfilled so there is a 3-4 feet level difference between the patio area and the meadow further below. I would like to soften the transition, for instance by removing some of the backfill and building a few safe steps where needed.
There is a longish grove of six redwoods along the south side of the house; several of them are deformed from early top-pruning. They were planted without regard for natural water supply from ground water - possibly relying on a septic system that is no longer in place. I am considering removing them or most of them. There is another redwood grove further down in the meadow - that is thriving on a natural water supply (a small fault line making the water table quite low.
F: Reestablishing the meadow with natives
---------------------------------------
Over the coming years I might be interested in actively restoring the meadow to natives only.
--------------------------------
1. visual screening along the road, Golden Oak. Some of the length of the property line is currently screened by a rickety fence that suddenly stops. The section downhill from the driveway (some 130 feet) is part of a natural oak knoll: beautiful old oaks growing of rocky soil (very hard to dig!) The oaks alone cannot provide sufficient screening between the road and the house
2. visual screening towards down hill neighbor, i.e. more dense planting than now along existing fence, max. 10 feet when fully grown
3. visual and possibly auditory screening further down the same property line. Alpine and the Los Trancos intersection are visible between the current planting; i.e. layers of planting of up to 30-40 feet tall in mature height (or perhaps an idea for somewhat lower planing further up the hill towards my house
4. visual screening towards a cottage/play area further down along the same property line
5. visual screening at the south end of the property, mature height less than 10 feet.
6. occasional filling out of large gaps in perimeter planting towards uphill neighbor.
B: Fencing for a small orchard like area on the east side of the house
--------------------------------
The fencing should be non-conspicuous but serve to keep deer away from this place (approx. size of "orchard": 30' x 50' - wonder if it is too small)
C: Planting along the driveway - from street to house
--------------------------------
Currently a lot of scraggly, gangly looking shrubs and small trees - instead I want
1. banks of native plants on both sides of driveway - all the way to the street (low on water, but OK with, say, weekly sprinkle)
2. provide screening (without looking like a hedge) to define the edges of the semi public area (the entry and the driveway) and without requiring a lot of water
D: Sitting areas for on south side of house (opposite driveway)
--------------------------------
There are different weathers and winds to attend to, possibly requiring several different patio areas:
1. Hot summer: shading by pergola and grape vines
2. Windy days: typically in the spring I have a chilling wind blowing from SW
3. Chilly evening for outdoor BBQ
4. Entertaining
E: Transition between house and meadow
------------------------------------
Currently I have a semi-rotten retaining wall 20 feet from the house on the south side; it has been backfilled so there is a 3-4 feet level difference between the patio area and the meadow further below. I would like to soften the transition, for instance by removing some of the backfill and building a few safe steps where needed.
There is a longish grove of six redwoods along the south side of the house; several of them are deformed from early top-pruning. They were planted without regard for natural water supply from ground water - possibly relying on a septic system that is no longer in place. I am considering removing them or most of them. There is another redwood grove further down in the meadow - that is thriving on a natural water supply (a small fault line making the water table quite low.
F: Reestablishing the meadow with natives
---------------------------------------
Over the coming years I might be interested in actively restoring the meadow to natives only.
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Planting - restoring some of the native "feel"
I had Danna Breen come over to advise me on what to do with the landscape. Donna is an avid landscape designer and also wonderfully opinionated about design and architecture.
She is great, and we had a good discussion about the potential of my lot. She was also impressed with the works of Tom Kundig: I showed her the book and talked about some of my hopes about the remodel.
Here is her immediate "verdict" about what needs to be done. The highlights are:
- Get rid of the fence in the front and the deck in the back. Use plants to screen
- Make the east side near the house into an orchard; to become the only netted/fenced part of the property
- soften the level difference from the house level to the meadow
- Remove unnecessary, ailing, or foreign trees, incl. the redwoods that have been topped off and those that are ailing. the eucalyptus, etc.
- Reestablish native grasses etc. in meadow
Here is her "Works list" (the numbers refer to the image file below):
1. Entry (from street) . Remove all exotics at street (Oleander, Cotoneaster, Pyracantha, Loquat) and allow natives to grow up. I would also remove the vinca and in the fall add plugs of native grasses. We can also add a few Toyon and Manzanita in strategic places.
2. Driveway left and right. Same approach really. Remove exotics and add natives at the "outer" ends of the bed: Large Manzanita Dr. Hurd or Mt. Hood and Fremontodendron and closer to edge of drive use Sages, Zauscheneria Mattole hybrid, Arctostaphylos Emerald Carpet, some succulents, Phlomis, Mimulus, maybe some grasses. The list can go on and on here in terms of what could be successful in these beds, but it all depends on maintenance.
3. To the left of the driveway up above.: Cut down Toyon to base and they will come roaring back. Both sides of the driveway offer opportunities to add clusters of large boulders, because the property feels a little meadow and a little sandstone/outcroppy in there front...as I mentioned I think the place has enormous diversity. So I would create a gravel terrace up here with strategically planted screen plants so that you can eventually the artificial front fence.
4 "Orchard "area. Love the concept...we only started to talk interesting materials at the end of our meeting, but I'd love to see your architect work through steel fencing and steel/glass walls to separate the MBR area from the rest of the program.
5 Onto the terrace spaces outside the living areas.The right materials are the answer here. I defer to your architect as well.
5a. [Rickety deck] Remove deck
5b. [levels, access to meadow] I would like to see the grade repaired between the upper and lower levels so they have a better, but distinct relationship. I think you may need some fill to accomplish this. I would also soften the linear ridge which separates the upper and lower areas.
5c. [Upper redwood grove] Spend the next few weeks really studying the redwoods and which ones should come out. I think the two to the left looking out the living room [LR in current configuration] because they have had their integrity destroyed. The others you need to think about. A purist would remove them all. I am close to that, but there is an interesting ambiance created by the trees and they are in a geologic spring area as is evidenced by the Carex grasses down in the redwood meadow.
5d [Property line towards the Corleys, the neighbor to the East]. Clean out along Corley PL. This fall I would add Cercis occidentalis, Arctostaphylos Dr. Hurd and Rhus ovata...maybe Sambucus for habitat and add these to the downhill neighbor screening plan ...to "beef" up some of the screening, so that you no longer see Alpine or Los Trancos. Soften the linear feel of planting along the property line by pulling some of the plantings into the property.
5e [Lower meadow, redwood grove] Cut down Eucalyptus and struggling redwoods [i.e, two of the redwoods in the lower grove] down below.
5f. [Bottom, property line towards PV garage] This fall add 6 5 gal. Myrica californica at PV garage end of property. Consider asking them irrigate them for two years on a temporary drip system to hide their floodlights or of course ask them to turn them off.
5g The property uphill from you [the Armstrongs, to the west] has some redwoods which will impact your view soon. Think about that. I love the good neighbor thing and I really emphasize it, but I also know when a property has been devalued by hundreds of thousands of dollars when trees obstruct the views.
6. Top of meadow grade. Cut down Photina and remove yucca palms.
She is great, and we had a good discussion about the potential of my lot. She was also impressed with the works of Tom Kundig: I showed her the book and talked about some of my hopes about the remodel.
Here is her immediate "verdict" about what needs to be done. The highlights are:
- Get rid of the fence in the front and the deck in the back. Use plants to screen
- Make the east side near the house into an orchard; to become the only netted/fenced part of the property
- soften the level difference from the house level to the meadow
- Remove unnecessary, ailing, or foreign trees, incl. the redwoods that have been topped off and those that are ailing. the eucalyptus, etc.
- Reestablish native grasses etc. in meadow
Here is her "Works list" (the numbers refer to the image file below):
1. Entry (from street) . Remove all exotics at street (Oleander, Cotoneaster, Pyracantha, Loquat) and allow natives to grow up. I would also remove the vinca and in the fall add plugs of native grasses. We can also add a few Toyon and Manzanita in strategic places.
2. Driveway left and right. Same approach really. Remove exotics and add natives at the "outer" ends of the bed: Large Manzanita Dr. Hurd or Mt. Hood and Fremontodendron and closer to edge of drive use Sages, Zauscheneria Mattole hybrid, Arctostaphylos Emerald Carpet, some succulents, Phlomis, Mimulus, maybe some grasses. The list can go on and on here in terms of what could be successful in these beds, but it all depends on maintenance.
3. To the left of the driveway up above.: Cut down Toyon to base and they will come roaring back. Both sides of the driveway offer opportunities to add clusters of large boulders, because the property feels a little meadow and a little sandstone/outcroppy in there front...as I mentioned I think the place has enormous diversity. So I would create a gravel terrace up here with strategically planted screen plants so that you can eventually the artificial front fence.
4 "Orchard "area. Love the concept...we only started to talk interesting materials at the end of our meeting, but I'd love to see your architect work through steel fencing and steel/glass walls to separate the MBR area from the rest of the program.
5 Onto the terrace spaces outside the living areas.The right materials are the answer here. I defer to your architect as well.
5a. [Rickety deck] Remove deck
5b. [levels, access to meadow] I would like to see the grade repaired between the upper and lower levels so they have a better, but distinct relationship. I think you may need some fill to accomplish this. I would also soften the linear ridge which separates the upper and lower areas.
5c. [Upper redwood grove] Spend the next few weeks really studying the redwoods and which ones should come out. I think the two to the left looking out the living room [LR in current configuration] because they have had their integrity destroyed. The others you need to think about. A purist would remove them all. I am close to that, but there is an interesting ambiance created by the trees and they are in a geologic spring area as is evidenced by the Carex grasses down in the redwood meadow.
5d [Property line towards the Corleys, the neighbor to the East]. Clean out along Corley PL. This fall I would add Cercis occidentalis, Arctostaphylos Dr. Hurd and Rhus ovata...maybe Sambucus for habitat and add these to the downhill neighbor screening plan ...to "beef" up some of the screening, so that you no longer see Alpine or Los Trancos. Soften the linear feel of planting along the property line by pulling some of the plantings into the property.
5e [Lower meadow, redwood grove] Cut down Eucalyptus and struggling redwoods [i.e, two of the redwoods in the lower grove] down below.
5f. [Bottom, property line towards PV garage] This fall add 6 5 gal. Myrica californica at PV garage end of property. Consider asking them irrigate them for two years on a temporary drip system to hide their floodlights or of course ask them to turn them off.
5g The property uphill from you [the Armstrongs, to the west] has some redwoods which will impact your view soon. Think about that. I love the good neighbor thing and I really emphasize it, but I also know when a property has been devalued by hundreds of thousands of dollars when trees obstruct the views.
6. Top of meadow grade. Cut down Photina and remove yucca palms.
Sunday, May 4, 2008
Tom Kundig visiting
Tom came by to see the property and hear about my latest ideas for the remodel. We talked about the idea of swapping public and private, and focusing the remodel on the oldest "box"( which would now become the public area) and a new entry. I think he likes the way my thinking has been going.
I am so excited. He has done such amazing stuff, so if he can get excited about this project I will be in for a treat. I am just worried that my budget is way too low...
Anyway, I have committed to have him do a design and I cannot wait to see what direction he will take it.
Also, I don't know to what extent landscaping is included in the design. I will ask him next time.
I am so excited. He has done such amazing stuff, so if he can get excited about this project I will be in for a treat. I am just worried that my budget is way too low...
Anyway, I have committed to have him do a design and I cannot wait to see what direction he will take it.
Also, I don't know to what extent landscaping is included in the design. I will ask him next time.
Ooops.... required setbacks
I just realized that I had looked in the wrong column for setbacks. Here are the correct ones:
front: 50'
sides: 20'
rear: 20'
fence front: 25'
other useful numbers:
height limit: 28'
front: 50'
sides: 20'
rear: 20'
fence front: 25'
other useful numbers:
height limit: 28'
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Integrating the overhang
Ever since I heard about the ban of roof overhangs*** after the S.Cal wild fires I have been thinking of whether an integration - or annexation - of my 4' wide overhangs would be feasible. The Jan 2008 floorplan proposal (swapping public and private) already does a bit by taking the LR roof overhang over the garage and making it into a corridor.
A first thought is that it would be a great way of getting Nana doors (?) - simply building out the floor and finishing off at the edge of the overhang with the bi-part, n-fold window wall.
The problem is of course the posts - they are between the current windows. Would it be odd to have a row of posts 6 feet apart and 4 feet from the windows. I am not 100% convinced that the integrated space would be really useful, at least not on the window/view side: it would be hard to furnish this narrow strip. If the living room space stays with its current function, the "strip" on the garage side could be either corridor to a new room on the NE side, or a mini library - or both.
Focusing only on the south side AND only on the Eastern "box" that has the tall ceiling (assuming that the Western "box" will be completely rebuilt), what is the cost-benefit equation of annexing the space under the overhang?
+ added 108K resale value (using avg. sf value of $750 and 36x4 sf)
- costing $XX in new foundation and basic framing
0 neutral in cost of new windows and doors since I would need to replace anyway
+ easy accessible space to use for installation of convection heat
- not easy to use the new space
- "break" in flooring, assuming the old oak floor is worth preserving
- new sun screening may be needed, like a new louvered (adjustable?) - see for instance here
*** I think I have learned that it is vented overhangs that are banned, not the ones I have. Nevertheless, it doesn't hurt to think about changing them since they do give the home a certain dated look.
A first thought is that it would be a great way of getting Nana doors (?) - simply building out the floor and finishing off at the edge of the overhang with the bi-part, n-fold window wall.
The problem is of course the posts - they are between the current windows. Would it be odd to have a row of posts 6 feet apart and 4 feet from the windows. I am not 100% convinced that the integrated space would be really useful, at least not on the window/view side: it would be hard to furnish this narrow strip. If the living room space stays with its current function, the "strip" on the garage side could be either corridor to a new room on the NE side, or a mini library - or both.
Focusing only on the south side AND only on the Eastern "box" that has the tall ceiling (assuming that the Western "box" will be completely rebuilt), what is the cost-benefit equation of annexing the space under the overhang?
+ added 108K resale value (using avg. sf value of $750 and 36x4 sf)
- costing $XX in new foundation and basic framing
0 neutral in cost of new windows and doors since I would need to replace anyway
+ easy accessible space to use for installation of convection heat
- not easy to use the new space
- "break" in flooring, assuming the old oak floor is worth preserving
- new sun screening may be needed, like a new louvered (adjustable?) - see for instance here
*** I think I have learned that it is vented overhangs that are banned, not the ones I have. Nevertheless, it doesn't hurt to think about changing them since they do give the home a certain dated look.
Driveway and lights
The idea is to make a small recessed line, just under the top piece, for instance by adding a 2x4 to the stack.
Dieter came by and suggested he could replace the current rotten boards with natural stone - estimated cost $4000. This idea would unfortunately preserve the flare form. He promised to leave good spacing so we can later remove the concrete without damaging the walls. So I said OK. He will not mortar the stones (which represent at least 1/2 the cost), so I can later dismantle and rebuilt in other shape.
Dieter also put in basic low voltage lighting along wall. It is kind of pathetic, just marking the edge of the driveway, not lighting up - though I am not sure I often need it really lit?
Monday, March 10, 2008
More fiddling with the floor plan
Transposing the floorplan onto the lot plan revealed that the new carport would be angled awkwardly - or alternatively that a lot of dirt would have to be moved. So here is another take on mostly the same ideas.
Unidrain
I can't believe I haven't mentioned Unidrains before. A MUST for any new shower I will be designing. Here is a picture of the drain, and this is a link to the site
Sunday, March 9, 2008
Driveway REDO
I don't like concrete - at least not the standard concrete slabs of last century. In a real estate ad I saw a patio taht I like. It may not be usable for a driveway though. Variations: there can be grass, thyme or gravel between the large pavers. The pavers can be flagstone or concrete.
I don't think the entire driveway should be paved. It might look better with driving strips from the public road till the central driveway/entryway.
Or perhaps more appropriate for a driveway there is this design (from http://www.inhabitat.com/2005/11/27/light-emitting-tiles/)
I don't think the entire driveway should be paved. It might look better with driving strips from the public road till the central driveway/entryway.
Or perhaps more appropriate for a driveway there is this design (from http://www.inhabitat.com/2005/11/27/light-emitting-tiles/)
Prefabs
All along I have been looking closely at prefabs as an alternative to - or perhaps supplement to - remodeling. While most designs are interesting, I have to admit that only a few have really got me excited. Some of the house designs are also pretty pricey.
Houses: Early on I got hooked on Michelle Kaufman's Breeze house (mentioned in one of the earliest postings). It is still my favorite for a "real" house
Guest houses: I recently found the EcoSpace cabin.
Houses: Early on I got hooked on Michelle Kaufman's Breeze house (mentioned in one of the earliest postings). It is still my favorite for a "real" house
Guest houses: I recently found the EcoSpace cabin.
Research needed for costing a remodeling
Depending on the size and cost of the project it may trigger some additional required works, like:
1. Automatic fire sprinklers (PV council meeting minutes and Woodside, ordinance). Access is also a hot issue in the fire ordinance. I may not need to change of driveway, but it would make it easier to get in and out if we cut the corners outside the gate
2. Undergrounding electrical supply line (may not be needed since I do not need to change the main panel - which is 200A).
I will try to get a better grip on these potential reqs.
1. Automatic fire sprinklers (PV council meeting minutes and Woodside, ordinance). Access is also a hot issue in the fire ordinance. I may not need to change of driveway, but it would make it easier to get in and out if we cut the corners outside the gate
2. Undergrounding electrical supply line (may not be needed since I do not need to change the main panel - which is 200A).
I will try to get a better grip on these potential reqs.
Saturday, March 8, 2008
The really tricky part is roof lines
I have absolutely no idea how to negotiate a happy connection between the new and the old roof of the plan from early January.
The existing home have these huge overhangs (4 feet on the main house, 2 feet on the old additions).
Now, if I want to replace the siding throughout the house Iit would be less of a problem simply to chop off the overhangs - or reappropriate them somehow. Then I would only have to come up with a pretty way for the new siding to meet the flashing of the roof - and I would of course need some special overhang over the front door.
This is where I badly need an architect (ok, one of the many places I need one ;-). I need someone who can make the structures look stunning and beautiful, and like they belong to the same "family".
I fiddled around with SketchUp, but I am not really happy with the result. It is not really "inspired".
The existing home have these huge overhangs (4 feet on the main house, 2 feet on the old additions).
Now, if I want to replace the siding throughout the house Iit would be less of a problem simply to chop off the overhangs - or reappropriate them somehow. Then I would only have to come up with a pretty way for the new siding to meet the flashing of the roof - and I would of course need some special overhang over the front door.
This is where I badly need an architect (ok, one of the many places I need one ;-). I need someone who can make the structures look stunning and beautiful, and like they belong to the same "family".
I fiddled around with SketchUp, but I am not really happy with the result. It is not really "inspired".
Sunday, March 2, 2008
lava stone in the US
From Palo Alto weekly in 2003 For those who love the look of ceramic tile, but hate the grout, a San Jose company manufactures large lava-stone tiles, under the name of Vulcanite. Volcanic lava is quarried, cut into 16-inch by 25-inch to 36-inch by 25-inch tiles, then glazed at a high temperature.
"It tends to soften the tile and give more of a hand-made look. Once you make something into a massive size, it develops a coldness," noted Paul Burns, president of Fireclay Tile. Of course, a counter made up of small tiles has even more warmth, he acknowledged, but then you've got all those grout lines.
Lava stone can tolerate hot pots, similarly to a high-fired glazed tile, Burns said. "It should last forever. The lava is actually harder than granite or clay," he added, and because there are very few grout lines, there are few edges that are vulnerable to chipping.
Maintenance of lava stone depends on the glaze finish. Some require just soap and water; others need to be sealed every six months with a penetrating sealer.
According to Burns, lava stone offers an alternative to granite, for people who want more color flexibility and a softer look. "It's not better, it's just different," he said.
Lava stone comes in 20 colors, as well as 200 custom colors. Price is on the higher side, at about $120 per square foot installed, Burns said.
"It tends to soften the tile and give more of a hand-made look. Once you make something into a massive size, it develops a coldness," noted Paul Burns, president of Fireclay Tile. Of course, a counter made up of small tiles has even more warmth, he acknowledged, but then you've got all those grout lines.
Lava stone can tolerate hot pots, similarly to a high-fired glazed tile, Burns said. "It should last forever. The lava is actually harder than granite or clay," he added, and because there are very few grout lines, there are few edges that are vulnerable to chipping.
Maintenance of lava stone depends on the glaze finish. Some require just soap and water; others need to be sealed every six months with a penetrating sealer.
According to Burns, lava stone offers an alternative to granite, for people who want more color flexibility and a softer look. "It's not better, it's just different," he said.
Lava stone comes in 20 colors, as well as 200 custom colors. Price is on the higher side, at about $120 per square foot installed, Burns said.
Kitchens
I get the impression that Europeans (mostly Scandinavians?) are obsessed these years about kitchen remodels. Being one of them, I certainly have my bug. With GoldenOak I am now ready for the 3rd new kitchen in less than 8 years.
Unnecessary to say, the kitchen style has to fit the house it is part of, so naturally my RWC kitchen in a simple Mediterranean was different from the modern Seattle kitchen. I could adopt the style from Seattle in this house - both being mid/late century modern homes.
But why walk the same steps twice when there are so many other beautiful styles to explore.
Here is a new/old design that I find appealing (but perhaps too boring?). I saw it in the Danish magazin BoBedre. The manufacturer is Koch Køkken, the model is Furesø in wenge and leather.
http://www.kochkoekken.dk/kk_enter.html / info@kochkoekken.dk / +45 4582 0099
Unnecessary to say, the kitchen style has to fit the house it is part of, so naturally my RWC kitchen in a simple Mediterranean was different from the modern Seattle kitchen. I could adopt the style from Seattle in this house - both being mid/late century modern homes.
But why walk the same steps twice when there are so many other beautiful styles to explore.
Here is a new/old design that I find appealing (but perhaps too boring?). I saw it in the Danish magazin BoBedre. The manufacturer is Koch Køkken, the model is Furesø in wenge and leather.
http://www.kochkoekken.dk/kk_enter.html / info@kochkoekken.dk / +45 4582 0099
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Barn doors - for interior use
I like the look of barn doors, i.e., with the exposed track above the door opening that the door travels on. But I don't really know how such doors would be truly practical. For one, I don't think they can close the opening completely (am I right?), and second, it seems to waste a lot of wall space. The latter may be less of a problem if I think of the door and its mechanism as a piece of art it self; then I wouldn't need to hang pictures on the wall ;-)
Some of the urls I looked at...
http://www.crown-industrial.com/index.htm
http://www.bartelsusa.com/
http://www.mytscstore.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/DisplayCategory_10551_10001_120409_14258__14239|14249|14258
http://livemodern.com/forums/materialsmethods/619451818
http://www.barndoorhardware.com/index.htm
http://www.nextag.com/barn-door-track/search-html
http://apartmenttherapy.com
Some of the urls I looked at...
http://www.crown-industrial.com/index.htm
http://www.bartelsusa.com/
http://www.mytscstore.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/DisplayCategory_10551_10001_120409_14258__14239|14249|14258
http://livemodern.com/forums/materialsmethods/619451818
http://www.barndoorhardware.com/index.htm
http://www.nextag.com/barn-door-track/search-html
http://apartmenttherapy.com
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Partial move
The architecture / design oriented blog has moved to a slightly anonymized address. Go to http://mygoldenoak.blogspot.com
Thursday, January 10, 2008
Turning the floor plan upside down
I was stuck for a while in the floorplan layout from Sept-Oct, and it seemed a fairly good and "not-too-involved" solution, except I just couldn't get excited about it.
Then I revived an old plan of making the current living room into a master bedroom and more. The logic of that plan is at least two-fold:
1. The current LR is perhaps the part of the structure that is most worth preserving; also it has good extra ceiling height
2. It makes a lot of sense to have that end, the eastern part, be the private part of the home, rather than the western part.
3. I like the idea of having outdoor space be in flow with the indoor space; I think this plan does it: the step down patio becomes a natural extension of the LR, and the work-out room on the NE side could potentially be a semi-enclosed structure around a SwimEx pool.
So one thought took the other and I liked the drafts that evolved. Then I happened to run into Steve and Deborah at Cafe Borrone during the holiday break, and Steve came out for an architecture chat one afternoon. He really hooked on to the idea of swapping private and public area, though I think I remember he was even more keen on addressing the entryway problem - which definitely needs some good thinking - more about that in a later post.
Here is the floor plan I have been playing around with recently (click on it to see a larger version, but be aware it takes some time to load)
Then I revived an old plan of making the current living room into a master bedroom and more. The logic of that plan is at least two-fold:
1. The current LR is perhaps the part of the structure that is most worth preserving; also it has good extra ceiling height
2. It makes a lot of sense to have that end, the eastern part, be the private part of the home, rather than the western part.
3. I like the idea of having outdoor space be in flow with the indoor space; I think this plan does it: the step down patio becomes a natural extension of the LR, and the work-out room on the NE side could potentially be a semi-enclosed structure around a SwimEx pool.
So one thought took the other and I liked the drafts that evolved. Then I happened to run into Steve and Deborah at Cafe Borrone during the holiday break, and Steve came out for an architecture chat one afternoon. He really hooked on to the idea of swapping private and public area, though I think I remember he was even more keen on addressing the entryway problem - which definitely needs some good thinking - more about that in a later post.
Here is the floor plan I have been playing around with recently (click on it to see a larger version, but be aware it takes some time to load)
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