It seems somewhat alarming how much I am looking to Denmark and Northern Europe for interior and exterior styles, as if there wasn't styles in the US to adopt and get inspired by. Well, it isn't completely true: I like Tom Kundig's exteriors and I have found several great houses in my books on modern American architecture. And I also like many older houses, like some of the original craftsman homes from late 19th century (Tom and Lydia's home for once), and the Eichler homes (yes, I put them under "older" styles, not really "modern" after 50 years).
Leif, my brother who co-designed my parent's home in early 70's, should be proud of his work, and I am trying to steal style elements from that house, like the convector boxes in the floor underneath the huge window/door wall and the raw rain chains ending in a concrete catch basin filled with egg sized stones.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, the hydronic heating is slowly making its way into the US market, but so far it comes mostly as floor heating and a few pretty bland (style-wise) space heating radiators. Like the products from Beacon-Morris or the US branch of Myson (a British co); the only one I would even consider is the Decor line. Now, take Myson, and compare the product line that is sold in US with what is available in UK. What is going on her? It is certainly NOT true that there are not US home owners who would want the designer pieces - and who can afford it. I wonder how much chicken and egg is involved: hydronic heat is a major and costly shift, and who would do it if they would have to stick in bland radiators and baseboard heaters? Now, being a design infatuated American who encounters one of the European stylish radiators, it itself is costly but if it comes with a demand of changing the entire heating system.
And I bet that the few importers/distrubutors of European styles are helping making it hard to penetrate - by marking up any items beyond reach for mere mortals.
Gee, we need the Ikea equivalent of plumbing to enter this stale and bland market!
Sunday, September 2, 2007
Saturday, September 1, 2007
Rain chains and catch basins
While Tony was here we did some exploration in downspout alternatives: with chains and catch basins.
I had been thinking of the rain chains used in Denmark (e.g., my parents' house from early 70s). Recently rain chains have been used here in the US, but mostly in the old Japanese inspired cutesiness of little containers that take over from each other. The ones I am after are away more robust. I am thinking of 3 chains replacing each downspout.
Tony clearly preferred the most heavy-weight we found, which was the 3/4" galvanized. I got hooked on the heat treated system 7 transport chain and I looked at the slightly thinner version of 5/8". Tony was concerned that the heat treated would rust and get ugly, and also look too skimpy in 5/8".
The price is somewhere between $2 and $2.50 per lin foot if purchased in half drums (200' of 3/4"), so we are ending up with 5 x 3 x 11' which is 165' or within the $500 estimated. Kind of expensive downspouts: $100 each. Though it is not too different from the cost of copper down spouts (another of my wacky ideas).
Thinking of it, I need to remember not to start the chains at the top of the roof opening: the thick chains will simply block too much.
Ewing Irrigation has some interesting square concrete boxes that could be used as catch basins. The price was something like $50 for a 22" sided concrete box, and closer to $120 for one with metal rim. Looks like we will just have to make do with the un-rimmed ones.
I had been thinking of the rain chains used in Denmark (e.g., my parents' house from early 70s). Recently rain chains have been used here in the US, but mostly in the old Japanese inspired cutesiness of little containers that take over from each other. The ones I am after are away more robust. I am thinking of 3 chains replacing each downspout.
Tony clearly preferred the most heavy-weight we found, which was the 3/4" galvanized. I got hooked on the heat treated system 7 transport chain and I looked at the slightly thinner version of 5/8". Tony was concerned that the heat treated would rust and get ugly, and also look too skimpy in 5/8".
The price is somewhere between $2 and $2.50 per lin foot if purchased in half drums (200' of 3/4"), so we are ending up with 5 x 3 x 11' which is 165' or within the $500 estimated. Kind of expensive downspouts: $100 each. Though it is not too different from the cost of copper down spouts (another of my wacky ideas).
Thinking of it, I need to remember not to start the chains at the top of the roof opening: the thick chains will simply block too much.
Ewing Irrigation has some interesting square concrete boxes that could be used as catch basins. The price was something like $50 for a 22" sided concrete box, and closer to $120 for one with metal rim. Looks like we will just have to make do with the un-rimmed ones.
Windows and doors
Am I just loosing it, or did I not previously talk about the big bugging issue I have had throughout this last year: the replacement of windows and doors.
Following the tradition of Alameda I would of course import a full set of Mahogany windows from Denmark - although the price advantage has gone down with the decline of the US dollar towards European currencies.
But another doubt-indicator is at play: it may make more sense to replace the windows with alu-framed windows and doors - to fit the late 50's/early 60's Eichler style of the house. On the other hand: this house is NOT an Eichler, and the crooked garage is certainly making it hard to even pretend I am one. Also, style and era faithfulness should only be carried forward when it helps the design considerations. In this case it does not.
So, I have gotten a quote from JNA in Denmark for Mahogany windows and doors. The advantage is taht they will be made to spec for no extra cost; the disadvantage is that they don't come with the nailing fins that seem to be a life-saver for US contractors. And they don't come with any of the niceties often optional in US windows, like screens.
I also looked into steel and alu-windows. Two different contractors came back and said they couldn't accommodate so large windows as the current LR picture windows. I thought that was odd and started researching it myself. There is a company that may be holding the answer: Fleetwood in San Francisco. I still have to fill out the quote request to get a sense of their pricing level.
Following the tradition of Alameda I would of course import a full set of Mahogany windows from Denmark - although the price advantage has gone down with the decline of the US dollar towards European currencies.
But another doubt-indicator is at play: it may make more sense to replace the windows with alu-framed windows and doors - to fit the late 50's/early 60's Eichler style of the house. On the other hand: this house is NOT an Eichler, and the crooked garage is certainly making it hard to even pretend I am one. Also, style and era faithfulness should only be carried forward when it helps the design considerations. In this case it does not.
So, I have gotten a quote from JNA in Denmark for Mahogany windows and doors. The advantage is taht they will be made to spec for no extra cost; the disadvantage is that they don't come with the nailing fins that seem to be a life-saver for US contractors. And they don't come with any of the niceties often optional in US windows, like screens.
I also looked into steel and alu-windows. Two different contractors came back and said they couldn't accommodate so large windows as the current LR picture windows. I thought that was odd and started researching it myself. There is a company that may be holding the answer: Fleetwood in San Francisco. I still have to fill out the quote request to get a sense of their pricing level.
Swing-out garage doors
Ok, it looks like I am gradually coming to peace with my crooked 45-degree-angled garage, so the old question is reappearing: what about garage doors? The dbl. door I have is neither pretty nor useful; as to the latter issue: the locking mechanism doesn't exist; it is heavy and there is no automatics, and the headroom is way too low because it functions as an overhead door.
I had the Guatemalans put in the drain - under Tony's supervision. And now it is time to think garage doors.
I had the Guatemalans put in the drain - under Tony's supervision. And now it is time to think garage doors.
Earlier on I thought of the glass garage doors. But the problem of low head room is not solved.
I discussed with Tony the option of converting the opening into 2 single doors and having them open as swing-outs. And it sounded like that would work. And because the right-side garage corner is up for some serious wet-rot repair we might as well redefine the rough opening of the garage as appropriate to fit new doors.
I found some doors that I like - but they are in Seattle!!!! I was not able to find online any swing-out door manufacturer or distributor in the Northern California area.
Nevertheless, what I found was very nice: they produce doors with glass lites, but also some with metal. I am starting to see a trend here: using "raw" metals that are coordinated, e.g., ga;vanized chains downspouts, galvanized flashings, galvanized metal as lites - or replace galvanized with whatever your favorite metal is: copper, etc.
Siding
I have seen a couple of pictures of unfinished cedar siding. I think it is untreated, although when I mention it to some contractors they seem to almost faint: how will it keep water tight? is one of the questions. Now, I don't think that the siding is supposed to be a moisture barrier, just a barrier for direct impact. I think it is just like the stucco layer: it is really meant to be permeable and it is important to make sure water has a way out on its backside. But I am really just guessing and going from pictures; hopefully someone will set me straight if need be.
What I like about the unfinished cedar planks is that they change hue: they are silver in dry sunshine and almost black when wet.
This is where a knowledgeable architect might come in handy: helping on all these materials questions, and finding all the cool things that I only find when they are part of my "Danish heritage."
BTW, I just realize that the siding on parts of the Googleplex looks like raw cedar; wonder if I will be tired of having cedar around me all day long, all week long.
URL for the pict above: www.kentinternational.ca/
Convection in floor - in front of windows ???
Meanwhile I've done some research myself on radiators.
It seems like it may be an overly expensive proposition to cut out holes in the floor and subfloor for the convector boxes in front of all 5 windows and doors in the LR. But the reason why I want them is that I am still dreaming of having 5 dbl. patio doors leading directly to the outdoor space.
So here are the options:
1. All openable doors => convector boxes in floor -
It seems like it may be an overly expensive proposition to cut out holes in the floor and subfloor for the convector boxes in front of all 5 windows and doors in the LR. But the reason why I want them is that I am still dreaming of having 5 dbl. patio doors leading directly to the outdoor space.
So here are the options:
1. All openable doors => convector boxes in floor -
for aesthetic reasons all 5 openings should have the grills
2. Only the 1st and the 5th are patio doors =>
depending on how much heating I need, I may only need
heaters at the 3 windows
Now, in terms of heaters in front of windows I have a couple of options:
a Small radiators sticking up from the floor in front of the tall windows
b Bench-like radiators in front of the tall window
c Windows that go only to 18-20" from floor and build out of bench-like structure.
So, how about some decision making ;-)
depending on how much heating I need, I may only need
heaters at the 3 windows
Now, in terms of heaters in front of windows I have a couple of options:
a Small radiators sticking up from the floor in front of the tall windows
b Bench-like radiators in front of the tall window
c Windows that go only to 18-20" from floor and build out of bench-like structure.
So, how about some decision making ;-)
Hydronic heating
As mentioned before, I hate forced air heating. But last time I looked into getting hydronic space heating (not just floor heating) - it was back in 2000 when I planned the Alameda remodeling - I had problems finding anyone with the right experience. Things have changes since then; hydronic heating seems to fit into the general green building program. I have had two contractors out to look at the task, one of them seemed particularly on top of things.
The task (in the outset) was basically:
Phase 1: Replace my antique furnace and (not so old) water heater with a boiler and boiler heated water heater. Think thermal solar energy.
Build convector boxes in the floor in front of the big windows in the LR, and possibly also in the blue BR. Use panel radiators in other bedrooms and kitchen. Dimension to heater to serve all phases.
Phase 2: [When entryway is ready for roughing-in]
Install floor heating in new entryway (incl. new corridor + powder room + bathroom).
Phase 3: [when kitchen is ready for roughing in]
Install floor heating in new kitchen.
Phase 4: [When the current BA/BR maze gets sorted out, back bath expanded with new floorplan ready for roughing in]
Install floor heating in new BA.
Install towel heater in yellow BA
Phase 5: [when SwimEx is ready to be installed]
Connect to solar panels????
Phase 6: [cannot even think about it]
I found a new UK web site dedicated to radiator. Here it is.
The task (in the outset) was basically:
Phase 1: Replace my antique furnace and (not so old) water heater with a boiler and boiler heated water heater. Think thermal solar energy.
Build convector boxes in the floor in front of the big windows in the LR, and possibly also in the blue BR. Use panel radiators in other bedrooms and kitchen. Dimension to heater to serve all phases.
Phase 2: [When entryway is ready for roughing-in]
Install floor heating in new entryway (incl. new corridor + powder room + bathroom).
Phase 3: [when kitchen is ready for roughing in]
Install floor heating in new kitchen.
Phase 4: [When the current BA/BR maze gets sorted out, back bath expanded with new floorplan ready for roughing in]
Install floor heating in new BA.
Install towel heater in yellow BA
Phase 5: [when SwimEx is ready to be installed]
Connect to solar panels????
Phase 6: [cannot even think about it]
I found a new UK web site dedicated to radiator. Here it is.
Security system
The house was burglarized late June; somebody entered a high-up bathroom window and got away with flat screen monitor, laptop, camera, headsets, and my brand new LCD TV. The sheriff thought it might be somebody from one of the many work crews that have been around (landscapers, concrete haulers, sewer people, etc.) It was a very unpleasant experience, and I have been thinking of what to do to prevent something similar in the future.
My immediate reaction would be to install some fancy system that would detect if somebody came near the house while I am gone, send me a message to allow me to watch the details. And I would then speak to the person "Excuse me, is there something I can help you with?" or just "Get off my property! Now!"
Well, I tried to explore more mundane solutions in the form of monitored alarm systems but ran into an issue: they all seem to require that there is a landline. I have decided not to have one.
I checked out some of the IP and networked video camera solutions.
First a couple from Fry's - of which one didn't work at all, and the other required a PC to be on all the times. Back to Fry's they went.
Next was a Q-see system w/ 4 cameras and DVR; it required a PC to set up but would otherwise provide the capability of remote web-based watching - special discount at Costco made it just over $500. The cameras looked like really good quality, nice and heavy, solid. But the DVR turned out to be very very noisy. And I couldn't get port mapping to work with my D-link Xtreme router, so the remote web options was not there. I returned it to Costco.
I am waiting for my third attempt: I ordered the AT&T remote monitor service, which is partly a hardware kit with a camera and a door detector, plus stuff to make the wireless setup really easy. The kit is $99, and the web and cellphone service costs $9.95/mo. It is quite close to my initial desire - at least i the description. Let's see when it arrives.
I also bought an automatic/electric gate opener - but haven't had it installed yet. The idea is to have the gate closed and thereby deter people from simply driving in their truck and loading it up with my goodies.
My immediate reaction would be to install some fancy system that would detect if somebody came near the house while I am gone, send me a message to allow me to watch the details. And I would then speak to the person "Excuse me, is there something I can help you with?" or just "Get off my property! Now!"
Well, I tried to explore more mundane solutions in the form of monitored alarm systems but ran into an issue: they all seem to require that there is a landline. I have decided not to have one.
I checked out some of the IP and networked video camera solutions.
First a couple from Fry's - of which one didn't work at all, and the other required a PC to be on all the times. Back to Fry's they went.
Next was a Q-see system w/ 4 cameras and DVR; it required a PC to set up but would otherwise provide the capability of remote web-based watching - special discount at Costco made it just over $500. The cameras looked like really good quality, nice and heavy, solid. But the DVR turned out to be very very noisy. And I couldn't get port mapping to work with my D-link Xtreme router, so the remote web options was not there. I returned it to Costco.
I am waiting for my third attempt: I ordered the AT&T remote monitor service, which is partly a hardware kit with a camera and a door detector, plus stuff to make the wireless setup really easy. The kit is $99, and the web and cellphone service costs $9.95/mo. It is quite close to my initial desire - at least i the description. Let's see when it arrives.
I also bought an automatic/electric gate opener - but haven't had it installed yet. The idea is to have the gate closed and thereby deter people from simply driving in their truck and loading it up with my goodies.
Catching up
I am catching up after another month of posting tardiness. The following posts will try to fill in the gaps.
- 8/8 mtg. w. Daniel Piechota, architect (daniel "at" sp-architecture"dot" com)
- 8/13 mtg w. David Moore, the arborist
- 8/21 mtg w. Harrison, hydronic heating contactor (harrisonshvac "at" comcast "dot" net)
- 8/22 mtg w. David Karson for Michelucci (engineering "at" michelucci "dot" com)
- 8/22 mtg w. Garry, crawlspace lining contractor (garyc "at" mgconstructors "dot" net)
- 8/23 mtg w. Michael, crawlspace lining contractor
- 8/30 mtg w. Lance, hydronic heating contactor
Research on
- security systems (adt 7/14, Q-see, IP based security system)
- rain chains (real chain, not the flimsy decor stuff) and catch basins
- siding
- convection heaters/radiators
- swing-out garage doors (Mardie "at" realcarriagedoors "dot" com)
- 8/8 mtg. w. Daniel Piechota, architect (daniel "at" sp-architecture"dot" com)
- 8/13 mtg w. David Moore, the arborist
- 8/21 mtg w. Harrison, hydronic heating contactor (harrisonshvac "at" comcast "dot" net)
- 8/22 mtg w. David Karson for Michelucci (engineering "at" michelucci "dot" com)
- 8/22 mtg w. Garry, crawlspace lining contractor (garyc "at" mgconstructors "dot" net)
- 8/23 mtg w. Michael, crawlspace lining contractor
- 8/30 mtg w. Lance, hydronic heating contactor
Research on
- security systems (adt 7/14, Q-see, IP based security system)
- rain chains (real chain, not the flimsy decor stuff) and catch basins
- siding
- convection heaters/radiators
- swing-out garage doors (Mardie "at" realcarriagedoors "dot" com)
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